Posts Tagged ‘weeds’

To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

Published by mrgrass2 on May 10th, 2011 - in Broadleaf Weeds, Lawn Care Companies

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
No Comments »

Crabgrass is the enemy

Published by mrgrass2 on September 14th, 2010 - in Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

The villain is clearly crabgrass.  This villain moves into your yard without any notice or invitation.  It germinates in cracks, near your mailbox, along the driveway, patio pavers, even the backyard barbecue!  Does crabgrass have no shame?  I think not!

If you want to beat crabgrass, you must know the weakness of your adversary.  Although there may be no silver bullet in our quick blog post, there are many effective countermeasures that can be employed to reduce, knock back, suppress the villain we know as crabgrass.  Where to begin?

Start simple folks.  You don’t need a truck load of chemicals as your sole tactic for global crabgrass reduction.  First, you need to understand the enemy- so lets examine this wonderfully evil plant.  Crabgrass is an annual and as such, it dies every fall- yes, it dies.  As such, it must manufacture a lot of energy in a short period of time to make enough seeds so it can insure a fresh generation next spring.  Next spring, once the soil temperatures warm up to around 50-54 degrees, the seeds will germinate.  The first locations are along streets, bare soil exposed from plowing damage along the driveway.  Yes, crabgrass needs heat to start up.  Therein lies the first vulnerability heat!  You need sunlight for heat and you need lots of it.  What about shade?  Not an issue- crabgrass must have lots of sun- so we don’t have to worry about the shade.  Therefore- do we need to apply pre-emergent crabgrass controls to the shade?  I think not.

Heat is what crabgrass wants- mixed with lots of light.  How do we reduce light and or heat to maybe slow down germination?  MMMM.  Mow high!  Yes, mow at 3″ and mulch thy clippings to enhance your organic matter.  Mowing high keeps your soil cooler for a longer period of time.  Excellent!  If you cut your lawn short, or scalp it- what happens?  The soil heats up fast and you suddenly have crabgrass seeds germinating like radishes in the garden- pop, pop, pop!  Mowing high means you need grass to mow high.  Darn!  What about bare spots and patches?

Even if you do use a pre-emergent product- which by the way are usually just dyes . . . nothing fancy and chemically evil about that- bare areas are just that- bare!  The soil will not stay cool, there is not grass to keep it cool- that’s why it is bare!  Even the best pre-emergent will fail under ideal conditions within 90 days or so- the sun and heat break it down.  If there is a bare spot, the life span is even shorter, perhaps a month or so a best.  You must seed those area now- its fall!  To beat the enemy, you must know the enemy.  Seed those damaged, bare patches, insect devastated, drought ravaged brown patches this fall and you will have the upper hand on crabgrass next spring.

Corn Gluten?  Who said make corn muffins?  Unfortunately, there is no scientific proof that corn gluten really works at preventing crabgrass at this time.  What this product does do is provide a shot of Nitrogen to your lawn like taking a mountain dew and mixing in some steroids to you!  Oh yeah, you get growth, and perhaps in return less crabgrass as your normal lawn starts to smoke and shake.  Lets just say the jury is still out on this product when it comes to substantial crabgrass reduction and I have used it plenty.

To summarize, seed now, mow high, and consider moving your lawn in a more positive direction by making it healthier.  A thick, healthy lawn is always your best defense with our without weeds my friends.  If you wait until the last minute- and then scream fire- the fire will be the crabgrass the size of your car or SUV wheels- and not so friendly.  Take care of your lawn- through the basics, and you will have less crabgrass- period.

Take care and may you have lawn that you can enjoy each and every day!

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,
No Comments »

Lawn fertilizer- look in the mirror

Published by mrgrass2 on May 19th, 2010 - in Fertilizer

A great lawn is no accident

Fertilizers are like skittles candy, they come in a rainbow of colors and flavors.  Like oil base to acrylic paints – each kind of fertilizer is more suited to a specific purpose such as supplying nutrients to vegetables, flowers, or lawns.  Everyone has an opinion and there are lots formulations from liquid to dry to those mixed with insect or weed control materials.

A common misconception I run into is the pure amount of fertilizer required to generate a visual response in a lawn.  Said another way, if you put down 10lbs of 12-8-5 or 50lbs, what is the real difference?  Will it be greener?  When should you fertilize?  What kind of fertilizer should you use?  If you apply lots of fertilizer can you do it less often?  Do you always just throw some fertilizer around your flowers, you know- just enough- everything usually turns out just fine.  Well, while that may be ok for vegetable gardens or flower beds- the same rule will not work or produce results in your lawn.  In this area- guessing may be fun on a weekend, but it likely will not get you any real lasting results- even in the short term.  In a worst case scenario, you put down too much and damage or even kill sections of your lawn.  So what to do?

The first thing you must ask yourself is “why am I doing this”?  Do you want to really improve your lawn this year or are you just making yourself feel good because you always put something down in the spring and fall?  Second, do you care about weeds or are you just trying to green this baby up so you can sip your lemonade from the porch after work (or other adult beverage) and absorb the pure enjoyment of a green carpet?  After you answer these questions- please move onto the level 2.

Level 2- Pick your lawn level!

What lawn?:  You do not treat your lawn (why are you reading this?)

Whatever:  You put down 1 or no applications per year.  You see a bag on sale and give it a go but have no misconceptions, this is futile.

I try: You put down 1-2 treatments and usually upset yourself because deep down you care, but not enough to do more.  Your lawn is ok and actually might look nice in the spring.

Semi-Pro:  You have hired a professional company in the past and or have one doing something now.  You have tasted results and realize what potential exists but may sway from doing it yourself to hiring a company.  You understand the fundamentals of turf care and may complete 1-4 treatments yourself- even renting an aerator in the fall!

Mr. or Mrs. Green:  You have your lawn treated by a professional turf care company and expect results.  Although not a fanatic, you demand results on what you pay for- typically less weeds, crabgrass, and a velvety green carpet like dreams are made of. 

Dr. Turf:  You measure your grass height before you go to work each morning and strictly forbid children, pets, or any foreign object from walking or resting upon your luxurious turf area called your lawn.  Whatever it takes, do it.  Your lawn can be tracked by NASA and actually glows at night from the energy released.  To you my friend, I salute you.

Product selection will generally involve slow or quick release fertilizer treatments.  Slow release is more forgiving and allows you to apply more N per 1,000 square feet- the unit of measurement on how you treat grass.  Most programs will talk about N= Nitrogen because turf grass has varying requirements on how much it needs each season.  Most turf in New Hampshire or Vermont will require 3-5lbs of N per season.  This normally equates to 3 to 5 treatments per season, with 4 being the average.  Quick release, high soluble fertilizers are wonderful in the spring or fall, but after that- they risk pre-disposing your lawn to drought stress, disease, sun scald and other issues.  This includes liquid or granular formulations.  The benefit of granular treatments allows you to change the rate on site with the spreader as opposed to a liquid treatment where the rate is set like octane at the gas station.

If this post causes you to act- ask me a question, comment on the information, or call a local professional for advice like myself.  Enjoy your day.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
1 Comment »
© Copyright 2009-2012 Chippers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.