Posts Tagged ‘vt lawn care’

July is rough on your lawn so here is what you can do to help

Published by mrgrass on June 23rd, 2012 - in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies

 

A dry lawn can mean improper mowing or lack of irrigation

Correct mowing is the absolute most critical factor when it comes to high summer temperatures and not adding stress already present due to heat and reduced rainfall.  One low cut below 2” can nearly instantly brown-out a lawn within hours.  The lower the cut, the more damage is done as the cut lets lose massive amounts of moisture in the hot sun causing the soil to heat up and weeds to germinate.  Nothing will set off an awful course of bad events more than a short mowing cut in July.  A dull mower blade adds to the dilemma by shredding the ends, predisposing the grass to disease and causing a displeasing tan or white tint.  Proper mowing means an am or pm cut, a sharp blade, and at least a 3” cutting height; anything less spells trouble for your lawn for weeks, if not months.

Although watering is nice, it is not the end all to saving a lawn in the month of July.  Dry lawns should not be mown unless necessary and not in the mid day.  A lawn in mild to severe stress will show mower tracks days after a cut.  Since the grass blade is mostly water, it may come as no surprise that without rainfall the lawn will lose its green color and not even have the ability to grow all that much.  Driving a tractor over a lawn in drought stress is like shoveling your driveway with a head cold in shorts in the winter, a less-than lovely combination.

Fertilizing in the summer should be to control damaging insects and be blended with slow release fertilizers, or nothing at all should be applied.  Since lawns do require at least an inch of rain per week to stay actively growing, anything less means growth will slow and the color will fade.  A normal dry period might last a few weeks to even a month in July or August.  If three weeks have gone by without rainfall, then a light watering can help keep your lawn alive, if only dormant.  Once the moisture runs out, grass will shut down and go to sleep like a bear hibernating.  This is a protection mechanism and helps most turf withstand a typical summer.  The extent of long term damage can be measured in early fall with normal rain and cooler temperatures.  How well your lawn faired will be dependent upon the initial health going into the summer, your mowing habits/height, and supplemental irrigation if you have the ability to do so.

Any irrigation is preferable in the early morning throughout the day.  Late afternoon to evening watering is not desirable because disease issues can quickly develop causing damage ranging from small to large patches.  Watering times vary from the thatch thickness, sun to shade ratio, slope, and turf varieties present.  One can imagine that a sunny lawn with a thick thatch layer would require significantly more water than a thin, shaded lawn out back next to the woods.  When in doubt, any water is better than none, but is not necessarily required in the big picture.

We created a mowing height gauge that’s a magnet so you can easily stick in on your mower, gas can or work area. No more excuses for mowing too short!  If you want a free mowing magnet, just send me an e-mail at turf@chippersinc.com and I would be pleased to send you one as a way of saying thanks for reading this blog! 

 

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Do it yourself versus the turf care professional. Reason #3: Results

Published by mrgrass2 on March 6th, 2012 - in Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies

Bottom line, lawn results count.

 

We understand why folks dabble with their own lawn, from the enjoyment of working outside, to perceived monetary savings.  However, when you boil everything down, isn’t the bottom line results; how good does your lawn look!  Results are the end product of effort, time, and money spent to achieve what most think is a predictable return for the investment.  While this general statement is true, achieving quality results is not such a straight line when we throw in weather, mowing practices, and other variables.

Results are generally backed by past research and historical best practices, yielding a predictable, expected return for the effort.  For instance, crabgrass germinates in the spring at a very specific soil temperature threshold.  History tells us that by reducing the seed population through preventative pre-emergent applications in the spring, a homeowner can expect less crabgrass for that given season.  This would be accurate based upon past research and lots of historical data to back it up.  However, what this best practice does not tell us is what other treatments exist and what bad things can happen after the spring treatment.  In fact, some outdoor activities can actually promote this undesired grassy weed.  Mowing short, high heat, thin turf density, poor soil structure and a host of other factors can directly influence that one “crabgrass” treatment, causing it to either fail early or fail altogether.  Achieving the results we desire can be more complicated than the instructions on the bag would have us believe.

Continuing with the crabgrass theme: there are rates from low to high as it relates to the “weed pressure” within the lawn.  A shady lawn may not require any pre-emergent control, while an open sunny lawn could receive the highest rate due to the exposure and likelihood of crabgrass seeds germinating.  A thin lawn may also be a candidate for a higher rate of this product given the predisposition to crabgrass infiltration.  Determining how to improve results in any of these scenarios requires additional questioning and investigation.  Why is the lawn thin?  Why do I need a crabgrass barrier every spring?  Can I live without this treatment?  What else can I do to improve my lawn?

Looking deeper into obtaining decent results, we find that there is more to the puzzle than an easy “one size fits all” application sold at the local hardware store.  While there is certainly merit in the use of pre-emergent crabgrass control under specific conditions, using it on all lawns year after year may not be the best solution or practice.  Who said that?  I did.

If your lawn is thin and weak, it needs more help than just a crabgrass barrier in the spring.  Without additional assistance, not much else will change and the results will likely stay the same year after year after year.  Like a song on repeat, I can guess what this lawn will look like four years from now without additional interventions like overseeding, improving the soil with lime, more organic matter, topdressing, aeration; I can go on and on.  Results can also be affected by hot or dry weather.  A weak lawn is predisposed to crabgrass and if the weather is hot and dry; you might as well watch the crabgrass germinate like a vine growing in the tropics of Brazil – fast!  Add a short mowing height, and the soil superheats, causing even more crabgrass seeds to germinate in addition to other broadleaf weeds.  Achieving good results on a lawn is more than just a weekend treatment or an occasional cut.  Quality results can only be achieved by looking at the lawn from the soil up and then addressing the issues at hand, one at a time.  The more experienced your lawn care company, the more likely you are to succeed and achieve the lawn of your dreams, no matter where it currently is on the spectrum of green loveliness.  Get results, take your lawn and move it to the next level this season with a different approach.  In doing so, you will achieve results that will save you time, money, and best of all- make you smile when you pull up to your driveway after a hard day of work.

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Don’t let matted leaves and early snow get you down

Published by mrgrass2 on November 2nd, 2011 - in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies

Clean up your yard before winter snow stays

Most folks got at least a few inches of snow this past weekend during a record setting October snow storm.  The impact on your lawn can be summed up in a few basic scenarios with the first involving moderate to substantial leaf litter on the ground now snow covered.  Left uncollected, these piles of leaves can be trouble for your lawn as colder weather approaches with snow that will not melt until spring.  As soon as you can remove leaf piles and other debris brought down by the heavy, wet snow you should plan on doing so to prevent smothering areas of your lawn.  The thicker the leaf pile, the better it will mulch your grass leaving dead spots and bare areas next year.

If you have your driveway plowed, now is a great time to put up stakes marking the edge of the lawn indicating the transition from gravel or pavement to grass.  Snow plow damage becomes visible in the spring time as snow recedes, exposing chunks of sod and grass tossed aside to dry out and die.  Without help, snow plow operators can have difficulty determining where your driveway ends and the lawn begins.  Such an error is commonplace during late night snow storms and can result in significant lawn damage.  Using posts, stakes, or sticks can provide a simple, yet effective signal and minimize or prevent the edge of your lawn from being “relocated”.

Even though it is now November, if you got caught with your lawn still needing another cut- say over 3” in height- don’t feel odd pulling out your mower for one last farewell mowing.  Many folks can remove leaves and mow simultaneously so this is a great opportunity to “get two birds with one stone” as the saying goes.  A clean, short cut in November is one way you can say “I love you” to your lawn before the onset of winter.

Many tree limbs were damaged by the weight of the snow with leaves still turning colors, many still green!  Be sure to have those branches cleanly pruned to help reduce future insect and disease damage.  Of course, remove as many downed branches on your lawn as possible, leaving the lawn surface as clean as possible before winter truly arrives.  Completing these basic housekeeping items can give your landscape the edge it might need to survive an unpredictable winter.

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Autumn brings out the best in a lawn in NH & VT

Published by mrgrass2 on September 14th, 2011 - in Compost Tea, Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

chippers can create a picture perfect lawn outside your window

With autumn in full swing, most lawns in NH & VT should be well recovered from what was a record setting summer in terms of high heat.  Any lingering damage should be very obvious and can be fixed before winter such as dead patches of crabgrass or ongoing grub activity.  September and October are ideal months to improve your grass due to warm soil, ample moisture, and cool days/nights.  Fertilizing, liming, aeration, seeding, compost tea, and optional weed reduction are all most effective at this time of the year in NH & VT.  Any insect activity should be addressed now as the longer you wait; the more lawn you lose and the more difficult the control becomes as the pests grow larger such as with grubs in the soil.

If your lawn has issues with weeds such as shepherd’s purse, chickweed, or henbit; consider a treatment this fall with products such as Dimension.  Use of the aforementioned product this fall will also provide some crabgrass suppression next spring.

Autumn is a great time to improve your soil since it is the supporting mechanism for a healthy lawn.  Topdressing with compost, adding sea kelp, or spraying on compost tea rich in humates, fungi, and bacteria are encouraging ways to improve the microbial state of your lawn before winter.  Using a high calcium lime is a positive step to not only adjust your soil pH, but provide calcium which turf greatly appreciates by improving the cation exchange within the soil itself.  What does that mean?  Calcium helps loosen soil up while Magnesium based lime tends to bind it up more.  The better the cation exchange, the less your soil will leach nutrients, especially when combined with a healthy microbial environment below ground.  Soils high in organic matter have high cation exchange capacities while sandy soils have very low ratings.  As you can see, healthy soil is more important to your lawn than you may have imagined.

As always, be sure to recycle your lawn clippings whenever possible and mow high even in the fall to promote deeper root systems.  As the leaves begin to fall and accumulate, don’t let them mulch out shaded areas- rake them up or mow them into pieces.  Improved sunlight can help those marginal areas which were blocked by a tree canopy or forest edge.  Even shade tolerant grass will appreciate a little extra sun in the fall before winter snow arrives.

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Lawn care treatment precautions: what you need to know

Published by mrgrass2 on May 16th, 2011 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

 

A common lawn care flag designed to grab your attention

You just arrive home and you see a lawn flag in your lawn, you don’t know what to do!  What precautions should you, as a homeowner, be aware of as it relates to lawn care treatments being made to your lawn by your lawn care company?  This is a great question.

Although lawn treatments will vary from liquid to granular, and from product to product, there are some basics you should be aware of regardless of the company you employ to care for your grass.  I prefer granular products because in general, no special precautions need to be made to you, as the homeowner or client.  Once the product is down, the majority of materials used do not require watering or even a waiting period before use by your family or pets.  Hurray!  In fact, even our broadleaf weed control products request that you do not mow or water for a few days for maximum results.  Wow, instructions to do nothing- I like this lawn program!  In fact, less than 5% of our lawn treatments require any special watering, mowing, or other unique directions to you as a home owner.

Lawn flags are required on commercial treatments in NH

Liquid treatments are another means to deliver a material to a lawn area or tree and shrubs.  As a general rule, these lawn treatments are diluted using water as a carrier and once dry, the lawn can be used for most activities.  Chippers’ “Essential Turf Care program” utilizes very few liquid treatments with the exception of some tick sprays, compost tea, or perhaps a non-selective weed treatment in your mulch beds.  Again, even these liquid treatments require no special action to be taken by you, as a homeowner.  Our program is designed to free up your time, not chain you to your lawn by adding more responsibility or duties.  Is it any surprise that our turf division has become so popular with our clients in NH and VT?

If you do have any questions regarding your lawn or other treatment, be sure to read the back of our flags or the door hanger left behind outlining what was done, when, who did it, and any special notes you may wish to read.  If you desire further information, call any of our offices during the week and speak to a real customer service executive, not an answering machine!  Your satisfaction is our top priority.

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Review your lawn contract before renewing

Published by mrgrass2 on October 19th, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Ice Melt, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Lime, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding, Turf Disease

If it seems to good to be true- you may be right

Did your doctor ever tell you to get a second opinion?  Hundreds of commercial lawn care contracts will be mailed out shortly to residential homes in remote parts of NH and VT.  Even more lawn contracts will be mailed out to commercial customers in the hopes that those in the appropriate position will sign, mail, or simply fax it back with no questions asked.  I propose that each contract deserves not only a second opinion, but a thorough examination line by line item.  The national and larger regional lawn care companies typically roll your program over from year to year.

Most lawns are not being examined to determine true needs but rather recycled in archives from prior years like a CD player on repeat.  While this automated process may approach adequate at best, I sincerely doubt you are receiving a turf care program worthy of your hard-earned dollars.  Furthermore, I doubt most existing clients even understand what they are receiving and why versus what is available in their market area.  Let me expand on this theme.

Many remote lawn accounts are labeled and classified as ”commercial”, with most customers unaware of this practice.  These kinds of accounts are processed at a high volume utilizing heavy machines called Turf-Trackers or even tractors.  These machines do a decent job on large properties or fields but are anything but light and are not ideally suited to home lawns or smaller settings.  An inexperienced operator can easily cause damage while running the machine over frost covered lawns, shaded locations, and especially slopes.  Turf can be easily torn, compacted, and ripped up without careful attention from the driver.  These machines make it easy to operate at an aggressive speed as they work to achieve the goals set for them by the larger corporate office.  If these facts don’t cause you to raise an eyebrow, please read on.

Unfortunately, many of these “commercial” contracts are recycled revenue without any fresh investigation data to support the renewal.  In fact, I would wager that most if not the majority of these accounts are seldom looked at beyond the production dollars they represent each year.  Simply put, the large national chains are usually too far away and their attempts to service remote regions often severely stress their limited staff and outsourced customer service centers.  Most national lawn care companies utilize lawn programs like McDonald’s “Happy meals” except without the toy because you get a few fertilizer visits, grub control, and a lime treatment.  Who would question that?

Does your phone call get forwarded to a call center or does a real person answer your call?  Are you able to reach your lawn care office or do you even know where it is?  Are you supporting your local economy or something much larger?

How can these large lawn care services claim and advertise to be local when they drive nearly 2 hrs to service lawns in remote areas of NH beyond their primary service market?  Is that local service?  Again, any company that pre-mixes fertilizer in a liquid medium and then applies it to every lawn in a single day is doing their clients a basic injustice as outlined in my blog post (http://mrgrassblog.net/2010/04/22/price-and-the-…awn-treatments/ ‎).  Mixing concentrated fertilizer into a liquid is an easy and inexpensive way to administer a lawn program.  As I said before, yes it works well for some lawns but not all lawns.  You get exactly what you pay for with this type of treatment, a quick buzz of green.  There are lots of natural and organic alternatives to this kind of turf care.

Before you sign on the dotted line, before you pre-pay for your entire year upfront- get a second opinion from a local lawn care company.  I welcome the questions and the challenge to take your property to the next level.  If you are not in our service area, I have companies I can recommend to you- just leave a comment to this post.  Even if you decide not to make a change, doesn’t it just make sense to get another opinion like a car or house repair?  Don’t just sign without thinking about what things could be like in 2011.  I know it’s easy to just send the lawn contract back, but a free second opinion from any other turf health care company is time well spent.  Make this winter the time where you decide to explore what has been going down on your lawn in the past and why!  Support your local economy and research who services your town for lawn treatments.  Exploring new options can be educational, fun, and you might even receive better results!

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The Blog For All Your Grass Needs!

Published by mrgrass2 on March 3rd, 2010 - in Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

MrGrass, the authority on turf will entertain you while providing tangible information on how to best care for your own piece of paradise!  We will explore new and old techniques and ponder the inner most workings of a healthy and sick lawn environment.  Join me on this journey as we laugh, cry, and learn the wonders of turf from me, MrGrass.

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