Posts Tagged ‘turf’

Broadleaf weed problems?

Published by mrgrass on August 28th, 2012 - in Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Lawn Care Companies

 

As Labor Day approaches, you are likely forced to think about school resuming and the sad state of affairs with your lawn.  If you have an average lawn in New Hampshire or Vermont, you are likely going to find fat broadleaf weeds like plantain, dandelions, and clover among a host of other weedy villains.  Let us not forget to give tribute to the massive crop of crabgrass which has now grown into your driveway, patio, and walkway cracks!  You my friend have lawn problems!  What to do?  There must be something that can be done!

If you attempted to treat for weeds this summer, your efforts were most likely in vain due to high temperatures and dry conditions.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced when they are actively growing which usually occurs with cool fall or spring weather when soil moisture is adequate.  Any summer spraying usually just causes the surrounding turf to brown under the stress and the weed itself might look a worse for wear but does not die.  This year brought such unusually hot and dry weather, attempting to keep a lawn free of weeds and especially crabgrass seemed like spraying a house on fire with a garden house.  While proper mowing does help, irrigation became vital if your well supported the flow or your town did not put a watering ban in effect.  Brown grass caused the soil to heat up quickly where dormant crabgrass and annual weed seeds popped up and grew overnight, basking in the hot noon sun.  That is the past and explains why your lawn may look the way it does today, even with professional care.

Moving forward, you have two main options, renovate and repair damaged lawn areas to regain lost lawn or go after the weeds once we get cooler, wetter weather.  My advice to most folks is to aerate and seed in the fall and repair any lawn damage without the pressure of crabgrass and annual weeds, that are now dying (something about them dying in the fall).  With reduced competition, fall becomes the best time to overseed and aerate a lawn after a brutal New England growing season.  Go after the weeds next spring when seeding is less effective and crabgrass lurks, just waiting to over run your best efforts in lawn repair.  There is little time now to spray for weeds and seed, given most weed control products have a one month waiting period before seeding is recommended. My advice for the average home owner is to get as much grass back now and then deal with the weeds next spring.  Try improving the soil quality by adding sea kelp or compost tea to get an edge next spring.  The next few months are critical and should be taken full advantage of if you really want to make a difference in your home lawn; not only this fall but to set the stage for the entire growing season of 2013!

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Lawn & Landscape reflections, planning for 2012

Published by mrgrass2 on December 6th, 2011 - in Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

Lawn & Landscape relections

With the passing of Thanksgiving and December now underway, now is a great time to reflect back over the past growing season.  As you reflect, write down known problems or areas of success while they are still fresh in your mind.  Doing so now will give you an opportunity to formulate a new strategy for 2012.  For instance, you may have had great success improving turf along a new walkway but failed to achieve a level of desired weed control.  Perhaps you never got to plant that colorful crabapple out front by the light post but really want to in 2012.  Make a list of your top 6 goals for 2012 as it relates to your landscape.  Keeping a short list will provide greater focus of resources, time, and ultimately your ability to achieve the goals once spring arrives.  I have found many homeowners with great intentions tackle too many projects simultaneously only to become discouraged due to poor results.  Creating simple, realistic goals will help you achieve real success and at the end of the day allow you to enjoy the fruit of your hard work.

Maybe you want to plant a new tree out front for color, or your back lawn is a disaster and you simply want something green to look at versus bare ground.  Whatever the goal, write down your thoughts so you can think the process through before implementing any changes or new tactics.  Some projects are best done before others such as planting a new tree or shrub, then finishing off the area with new grass.  Why waste time seeding a lawn area only to dig it back up again to create a flower bed or a mulched space for new ornamental trees?  Thinking through your goals sooner rather than later will allow for a better game plan and easier execution when it comes time to implement your new goals.

Improving your outdoor green space can be a very rewarding experience and provide years of enjoyment during our short growing seasons in New England.  After working on thousands of lawns and landscapes, I can summarize and share some of the most common improvements where professional help might be considered to save time and achieve a specific outcome.  The list below consists of the most common exterior green space home improvements I have encountered but is certainly not limited to just these types of projects.

  1.  Lawn renovation/restoration (lime, fertilizer, compost tea)
  2.  Tree & Shrub pruning
  3.  Tree & Shrub removals
  4.  Tree & Shrub new plantings
  5.  Perennial garden renovation/installation
  6.  Flower garden renovation/installation

Lawn renovations or restorations are what I deal with on a daily basis and many folks don’t realize most lawns can be improved “as is” without starting from scratch.  Most clients are looking for improved turf color, density, and less weeds or bugs.  While the prescribed treatments will vary, most lawns can be dramatically improved in just one year with diligent and professional care.  Tree and shrub pruning is an often neglected area either not being done at all or done incorrectly and may cause future growth and (structural) damage.  Pruning done by a professional on a routine basis is actually less expensive than waiting numerous years not to mention the tree may be injured thereby predisposing it to insect, disease, and ice/snow damage.

Tree or shrub removals usual involve overgrown or dead/damaged plant material that may be a hazard to your home or yard.  Removals can improve a view or add sunlight to a damp, shady location.  Planting new tree or shrubs is a very common activity and usually is on the spring “to do list”.  Be aware however that problems with planting can occur when the planting depth is improper and/or the wrong tree or shrub is placed in the wrong location.  While the job may look sweet and seemingly be destined for years of enjoyment, I am called in (sometimes years later) to diagnose a declining plant for the reasons I just mentioned.  Another fun green space project is the renovation, creation, or expansion of either flower and or perennial beds.  These types of projects can be very enjoyable as the plant material is generally small, readily available, and easy to plant.  While most of these types of goals can be successfully achieved by a homeowner with the patience, research, and time – most will opt for professional advice if not assistance at some point in time.  The key to improving your outdoor green space is keeping things simple and planning out your projects over the winter so when spring arrives, you have a strategy already in place.

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Lawn watering, from green to brown

Published by mrgrass2 on June 8th, 2011 - in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

Watering your lawn is essential if you want to minimize browning

June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT.  While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days.  Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences.  For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January.  The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather.  I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight!  I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.

How can such a thing be prevented?  You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3,” not too short as to cause stress.  Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy.  A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.”  This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant.  A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days.  This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.

Classic drought stress brought on in June by warm weather and minimal rainfall

Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present.  Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity.  Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer.  If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.

Hot spots in a lawn should receive top priority when it comes to watering

When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown.  Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended.  Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves.  Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced.  Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly.  Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities.  If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat.  Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting.  In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all.  Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown.  Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints.  These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.

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Lawn care treatment precautions: what you need to know

Published by mrgrass2 on May 16th, 2011 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

 

A common lawn care flag designed to grab your attention

You just arrive home and you see a lawn flag in your lawn, you don’t know what to do!  What precautions should you, as a homeowner, be aware of as it relates to lawn care treatments being made to your lawn by your lawn care company?  This is a great question.

Although lawn treatments will vary from liquid to granular, and from product to product, there are some basics you should be aware of regardless of the company you employ to care for your grass.  I prefer granular products because in general, no special precautions need to be made to you, as the homeowner or client.  Once the product is down, the majority of materials used do not require watering or even a waiting period before use by your family or pets.  Hurray!  In fact, even our broadleaf weed control products request that you do not mow or water for a few days for maximum results.  Wow, instructions to do nothing- I like this lawn program!  In fact, less than 5% of our lawn treatments require any special watering, mowing, or other unique directions to you as a home owner.

Lawn flags are required on commercial treatments in NH

Liquid treatments are another means to deliver a material to a lawn area or tree and shrubs.  As a general rule, these lawn treatments are diluted using water as a carrier and once dry, the lawn can be used for most activities.  Chippers’ “Essential Turf Care program” utilizes very few liquid treatments with the exception of some tick sprays, compost tea, or perhaps a non-selective weed treatment in your mulch beds.  Again, even these liquid treatments require no special action to be taken by you, as a homeowner.  Our program is designed to free up your time, not chain you to your lawn by adding more responsibility or duties.  Is it any surprise that our turf division has become so popular with our clients in NH and VT?

If you do have any questions regarding your lawn or other treatment, be sure to read the back of our flags or the door hanger left behind outlining what was done, when, who did it, and any special notes you may wish to read.  If you desire further information, call any of our offices during the week and speak to a real customer service executive, not an answering machine!  Your satisfaction is our top priority.

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To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

Published by mrgrass2 on May 10th, 2011 - in Broadleaf Weeds, Lawn Care Companies

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

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White Grubs in your NH or VT lawn

Published by mrgrass2 on May 8th, 2011 - in Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects

White grub damage on a lawn

I was just finishing up some yard work today and noticed some rather large, creamy color, C shaped grubs worms in a few sunny locations.  Given the current grub size, they are most difficult to control without some aggressive attention.  You have a few choices in May to knock back a grub infestation in your lawn.  Dylox is one of a few materials that will address grubs in a large state with generally satisfactory results.  There are only a few organic options worth reviewing like concentrated cedar oils, and capsaicin extract blended with other oils.  In either case, a repeat treatment can often be necessary given the mode of action, time of year, and size of the grub itself.  Trying to use standard Grub-X will not work because the active ingredient is designed for small grubs, not big boys like you see in May in NH or VT.

Another option is not to treat at all and wait until summer to apply a preventative treatment which not only means the ability to use less aggressive products, but in lesser amounts with incredible control percentages approaching 95-99% in total effectiveness.  Preventative products are usually required in fewer amounts, are much more effective, and are more environmentally friendly as a result.  Grubs and other insects are vulnerable in a smaller state or size.  Therefore, it only makes sense that less product and/or active ingredient is required when being proactive versus reactive.

For anyone experiencing grub infestations, look for annual grub control in the June-September time frame for maximum results.  The cost of not addressing grub issues in your lawn can mean expensive renovations, especially if you have an open, sunny lawn or a prior history of grub problems.  Rose chafers, European chafers, and Japanese beetles all pose a serious threat to your lawn and garden as well as your tree and ornamental shrubs.

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Lawn pests include grubs in NH & VT

Published by mrgrass2 on April 19th, 2011 - in Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects

The Japanese beetle will not only eat foliage, the grubs will eat your lawn!

There are about eight major types of grubs in NH and VT that cause turf damage, ranging from the classic Japanese beetle to a masked chafer.  Grubs will cause lawn damage plus the adults will devour ornamental shrubs and trees in your landscape.  The potential loss of your investment makes controlling the young and adult stage of these beetles a sensible decision.  Luckily, there are organic and new products available to help control these villains plus many others!

As always, the best defense is a good offense.  Healthy turf can withstand root pruning and even minor damage without a pesticide being applied – even an organic one.  Proper cultural practices, such as proper irrigation and a high 3” mowing height, also help keep your lawn cooler and less desirable to adult beetles.  Overseeding with resistant turf varieties makes the grass taste less desirable, not necessarily to grubs but to their buddies above ground like chinch bugs, sod webworm and such.

New and old research shows that compost tea actually helps grass develop its own immune response to reduce damage from both insect and disease activity. Although not an easy turf treatment, beneficial nematodes provide 100% organic control in the spring or fall.  Milky spore disease was developed a long time ago to control only Japanese beetle grubs, not the other seven.  Unfortunately, the spores take years to develop due to the cold New England winters.  As a result, Milky spore is not recommended by professionals as it simply does not work in NH or VT.

New organic pesticides that are ORMI certified contain capcaisin, the active ingredient in hot peppers. To obtain good results, and because the organic treatments are short-lived, multiple visits are required in the spring and fall to obtain predictable results.  Even organic pesticides require extensive licensing and certification in both NH and VT.  If you are considering “professional help,” be sure to ask for the company’s NHPC number in NH or license certification in VT before having any treatment done on your property- organic or otherwise!  The potential damage inflicted by an application remains substantial, even if the material used is 100% organic, with improper rates, training, and equipment.  In today’s economy, everyone with a pickup truck claims he is an organic landscaper but doesn’t have the credentials, insurance, or education to back up the temporary lettering.

For those ‘do-it-yourself’ folks, be careful what you purchase and use this spring.  For instance, “Grubex” is another name for Acelypryn, a great new product for controlling grubs and other harmful insects.  Unfortunately, if used at the wrong time, your application will not work due to the size and life stage of the pest you may desire to eliminate.  This factor underscores the importance of proper training and state certification where turf technicians must learn not only insect but local disease pests.

While the bag you buy at your hardware store may be well labeled for grubs, you may not be applying it at the right time or stage of the pest.  Said another way, just because the bag says it controls pests X, Y, and Z does not mean you are going to control them due to the time of year.  This type of activity would be the definition of a waste of money, time, and chemical.  Without the proper information on the life cycle of the pest you seek to destroy or reduce, applying home products is like shooting in the dark.

In summary, there are lots of ways to help your lawn look great, with the best and least environmental impact being the cultural and day to day upkeep of the turf.  Integrating resistant grasses during lawn overseeding/establishment and implementing organic or natural bacterial and friendly fungi are super tools with no harmful side effects.  In my opinion, pesticides should only be used as a last resort or when there may be a history of continual damage on a scale that would outweigh the omission of such products.  In other words, a $400 treatment outweighs a $5,000 renovation!

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New Hampshire lawn care companies

Published by mrgrass2 on March 28th, 2011 - in Lawn Care Companies

Support Your local economy

A turf program can be defined as creative, client responsive, results oriented, or even thoughtful.  This kind of lawn program would be highly desired and sought after for lots of reasons including the ones already mentioned.  A turf program could be dated, budget driven, restrictive, or even canned.  Your lawn care program could include some of these attributes good and bad.  What do you get out of your lawn service?  Are you generally pleased and feel your lawn requires no further attention?  Perhaps the prospect of seeking additional advice seems just too much of a bother?  After all, if it is not broken- why fix it?  There is no right or wrong answer to these questions, just the realization, and the possibility that doing things the same, year after year- produces equal or less results over time.  This may not necessarily be a bad thing.  Maybe greater results could be visualized in your own lawn with a fresh look this season? Would an expert analysis be worth the time?  What do you think?

Alternative lawn treatments exist and should be explained as to why they work and how they work for both you and the environment.  If you are served the same TV dinner lawn program each season (fert/grub/lime) without any additional input, perhaps there is more to be said- or maybe less?  Does your lawn care company work in your town nearly every day or does it launch special visitations because the drive is so long?  Which company can provide better customer service, the one that has a 1.5hr drive one way, or the other which can be at your front door in 10 minutes?  These are good questions.

Chipper’s belongs to the Local First Alliance of the Upper Valley and is a proud charter member serving our surrounding communities and giving to those in need generously.  In the same respect, we encourage our neighbors and communities to support each other, to support businesses whose employees live and work in our towns.  We are proud to service wonderful towns like Hanover, Etna, Lyme, New London, Grantham, Woodstock, Sunapee, Lebanon, and so many more.  If you choose to use an outside vendor from faraway places such as Rutland or Manchester to service your lawn for instance, this does not support our immediate local economy.  If supporting your local community is as important to you as it is to chippers, consider a second opinion on your lawn this year and discover how both realms are possible- a great looking lawn and knowing you make a difference by supporting those who live in and around your town!

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Spring Lawn Checklist 2011

Published by mrgrass2 on March 22nd, 2011 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

Goodbye winter, hello green!

The snow is mostly gone, you may even have a few lingering snow banks that refuse to leave, but for the most part, your lawn is begging for some attention.  Here is a handy spring checklist for your home lawn as you prepare for spring.

1. Plow damage.  It’s been a snowy, rough winter and if you had your driveway plowed, you are likely going to have plow damage.  Chunks of sod and lawn likely got plowed up along the edges and pushed further back onto your lawn.  These pieces of turf chunks may be close to their original location which is now just a scar in the dirt.  If possible, try to put the lawn puzzle back together and place the grass pieces back onto bare soil.  It may well be weeks before anything else can be done and during that time frame, those pieces of grass will start to break dormancy and grow.  Having them at least touching soil is better than mulching your unharmed lawn where they currently reside.  You can always move these grassy sections later and seed as needed into surrounding bare areas.

2. Debris. You may well find gravel, junks of asphalt, branches, leaves, and other debris that simply don’t belong on a grassy surface.  The sooner you can rake and remove this debris, the better.  If the debris is left in its current location, you may not see it during your first mow.  Nothing is more painful than hitting sticks, rocks, and gravel with your mower having been placed onto your lawn by a plow truck.  Leaves left in piles or allowed to matt, especially in shade, will simply mulch any existing grass depending upon its health and density.  The less debris the better.

3. Raking. There are two ways to rake a lawn, one is intentionally damaging- power raking/dethatching, the other is just plain hand raking or using a pull behind tractor implement.  I do not recommend power raking/dethatching unless the lawn has a severe, and by severe I mean a thatch problem- over 1” thick.  Most lawns do not have this kind of depth when it comes to thatch.  As a result, if the average lawn is power raked, it is actually damaged by the process of tearing and cutting.  Since the grass is dormant, and likely stressed by winter ice/snow/cold damage, power raking tears up roots and actually thins a lawn which in most cases is not a desired outcome.  If seeing piles of dead grass blades makes you feel warm inside, you might want to look at a coffee or hot cocoa instead, it certainly will do less damage to your lawn.  I have seen perfectly healthy lawns nearly destroyed by well intended landscapers, only to be called in to repair the damage by overseeding and other processes.  Stick with a hand rake and fluff the lawn up to help it warm and start to grow, or hire someone to do a spring cleanup which includes light raking.  If your lawn has a thatch issue, consider core aeration later in the spring or fall after it has recovered from winter damage.

4. Fertilizer/Crabgrass control. If you are going to use either fertilizer and crabgrass control blended together- don’t put it down too early.  A crabgrass barrier/inhibitor has a limited life span and can easily thin out turf already in a weakened state from winter.  Your best bet is to apply a plain balanced fertilizer to enhance recovery in April, than follow it up with a crabgrass inhibitor in May for maximum results.  This order will accomplish the best of both treatments while not subjecting your lawn to further stress, thinning, or damage.

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Crabgrass and your lawn in NH

Published by mrgrass2 on March 15th, 2011 - in Crabgrass, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

 

When variety and price work against you

There is excitement in the air as day time temperatures rise past the 40’s and into the 50’s with the promise of spring.  Crusty old snow banks shrink each day, exposing the edge of sidewalks, roads, mulch beds, and yes lawns!  The first glimpse of once proud green grass can choke up even the hardiest of New Englanders.  Let’s face it, winter takes a toll on our mental state and even a few hours of sun and green can turn the worst mood around fast.

Spring can be confusing though, especially with all of the advertisements from the big chain stores like Home Depot or Lowes.  These big boys double or triple there employment and bring in all kinds of supplies to fill up the garden department.  Pallets arrive by the truck load and are stacked up in tidy rows yielding multiple selections of colored mulch, fertilizers, decorative stone, lime, topsoil and much more.  Did someone mention new tools?  Who doesn’t love a new shovel or rake?  I mean come on!  Then there are the accessories like bird feeders, edging, lamps, tiki torches, and fencing.  The flowers in baskets and pots draw in even the most hardened shopper like a moth to an outdoor light at night.

While the selection is delightful at these kinds of stores, what commonly is absent is turf knowledge, practical knowledge which applies to your piece of American pie.  Picture yourself standing in front of 6 pallets containing different fertilizers, never mind lime or other materials.  Most of these bags will contain fertilizer mixed with a variety of herbicides or insecticides, some not appropriate for the time of year or the needs of your lawn.  These lawn products generally specify how much they treat in square footage, which can be handy.  However, most materials have a range from “low to heavy” depending upon the rate required.  A lot of the square footage can be based on the low range, which may or may not be what is required at your home.  In other words, you may put down too much or too little for the job which can lead to damaging your existing lawn, turf thinning, poor weed control or a host of other issues.

Surrounding water such as lakes, ponds, and rivers are sensitive areas which must be taken into consideration when applying lawn care materials.  While the laws in NH allow a home owner to apply a variety of products in a turf setting, the same rules apply.  Be sure not to apply ANY fertilizer within 25ft of a pond or lake.  Sea Kelp and lime may be applied within the 25ft range.  From 25ft to 50ft you must use a low phosphate, slow release fertilizer containing NO WEED or INSECT control.  This is very important in order to preserve the quality of the surrounding water and wildlife.  While turf is important and does act as a filter, circumventing or not obeying the law will only cause issues down the road.  Remember, more homeowners treat their own lawn then professionals such as our company.  The impact and risk to a body of water is much higher with homeowners considering the hundreds of houses along lakes and rivers within NH, never mind VT.

Before you buy 200lbs of something and apply it some weekend morning; be sure you are comfortable with the prospect of decent results, the cost of the material, your time, and the potential outcome of wasting all of the above.

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