Posts Tagged ‘nh lawn care companies’

A look back at the 2012 lawn care season.

There is little disputing the 2012 growing season was a record breaker in more than one area.  Extreme heat and corresponding drought caused widespread damage to even well cared for lawns.  The effect of these weather phenomena then led to massive explosions of pests like grubs and chinch bugs.  Even with November fast approaching, the pest issues will spill over into the spring of 2013, and if left untreated, will continue to cause turf damage.  There is little that can be done for physical lawn repairs at this point in the growing season like bringing in new loam or trying to establish a lawn through seeding.  However, beneficial turf treatments applied now like potassium, lime, compost tea, sea kelp, and slow release fertilizer can help both a damaged and healthy lawn.  Lawn repairs ranging from small to full renovations should be explored now or at least during the winter months as landscapers and lawn care companies will be overwhelmed this spring by sheer volume of repairs necessary never mind pest treatments.  Timing could not be more critical in terms of seeding and treating for damaging turf and ornamental pests than the spring of 2013.  Even if the weather pattern returns to a more “normal” or stable pattern, the repercussions of this season’s heat and drought will continue into 2013.  Although brown grass in October can be a result of past drought and exposure to dry weather, it can also spell bug troubles in the surrounding lawn as grubs vigorously eat fast growing root systems.

Don't wait until the spring to make your lawn plans

I am seeing grubs in record setting numbers and on lawns which have never had a past issue.  While a curative treatment is only a short term fix, a preventative treatment in 2013 may well be in order for more lawns than previously expected.  I do not normally endorse the use of materials to preventatively protect against grubs, which in a normal year are rarely a huge issue unless past history indicates a problem.  However, I will be firmly endorsing both curative and preventative grub control on a case-by-case basis for 2013 because of the high risk factors recently experienced in New England.  Furthermore, another mild winter would further enhance tick populations in 2013 in addition to hundreds of other outdoor pests.  Make a note on your calendar to explore the potential health issues this winter and make plans, if deemed appropriate after speaking to professionals in the industry, such as Chippers.

On the bright side, the recent rain and cooler weather in combination with fall lawn treatments are helping damaged and weak lawns recover to the maximum degree possible before winter.  Don’t dismiss potassium, compost tea, and aeration after the harsh growing season we experienced this past year.  All of these treatments can be done well into November in most of New England so long as the ground does not freeze.

White grubs are eating your lawn without you knowing it!

In closing, don’t forget the millions of crabgrass seeds which were deposited in record numbers along driveways, patios, and walkways because of drought or insect damaged lawns.  Although a thick, healthy lawn is your best defense against crabgrass, some areas will not be up to the task without additional help of a preventative crabgrass barrier in the spring of 2013.  Timing will be key and a lot of good can be done in an eight week period next spring, so don’t file your lawn contract when it arrives this winter, review it carefully and setup a proactive plan to both protect and perhaps restore your home lawn for the investment it truly is!

 

Compost Tea, gaining mainstream popularity in turf care

Published by mrgrass on August 14th, 2012 - in Compost Tea, Lawn Care Companies

Anyone who is in the professional lawn care business, and by that I mean lawn healthcare, is aware of compost tea.  Lawn treatments such as fertilizing, lime, weed & insect control have always been a staple in the efforts toward improving and managing turf grass in a residential or commercial environment.  There is a new school of thought that focuses not on improving or protecting the grass plant itself, but the soil it lives in.  Although this is not a radical thought, it is certainly a departure as it focuses on the issues at hand in the soil versus treating the signs or symptoms of unhealthy lawns; mainly the grass itself or some pest.  Since so many issues in a lawn can be attributed to poor soil conditions, compost tea has risen as one means to improve the soil which then promotes healthy grass.  Although not a quick cure all, the strategy here is to add bio-organisms into the soil which then help break down organic matter, thus lending to natural “fertilizer” production.  Although this is over simplified, adding bacteria and fungi into any lawn has lots of benefits.

A lawn treated with compost tea

Compost tea is usually a blend or mixture of different kind of bio-organisms, many which have been reduced or lost in the soil due to a variety of issues.  Some of these issues include, but are not limited to, high salt content from extensive manufactured fertilizer use, poor soil, and or use of weed and insect controls over time.  If we go back to basic high school biology, we find that soil is a living eco-system. As such, soil is influenced by what is put into it such as fertilizers, or removed, such as grass clippings(versus mulching).  Protozoa, bacteria, and fungi all live in specific concentrations to help break down organic matter and pollutants in the soil substructure.  Anything that is applied to a lawn will move below ground and affect these biological populations.  When these organisms can be easily destroyed by any number of means, you can expect that the natural cycle of life is broken, resulting in a broken lawn and the entire ramifications one can expect from such actions.  Salt toxicity is a common occurrence by the overuse of fertilizers.  Highly soluble nitrogen along with potassium salts lend to reducing or even eliminating beneficial organisms in the soil beneath your lawn.  Compost tea is meant to not only add organic matter to the lawn, but to help rebuild those fragile, damaged micro-ecosystems which may have been reduced due to prior lawn treatments.  Adding bacteria, fungi, and in some cases protozoa, helps rebalance how nitrogen and other valuable nutrients are slowly added around the turf root system for a more uniform supply of “food” if you will.

Remember, nutrients are technically not food for any plant as they manufacture real food from the sun through photosynthesis, not from fertilizers.  Fertilizers only help provide some building blocks which improve the plants ability to fight off harm such as disease, insects, and stay greener so it can grow healthier.  This explanation is over simplified, but for the sake of a blog article, it will do just nicely.

Proper mowing and watering help any lawn in the summer

Compost tea then, is a rescue line toward saving and improving your soil.  Instead of targeting the issue at hand, whatever it may be from poor color, to a disease, or poor grass density; compost tea seeks to correct the underlying issues in the soil versus what you see above ground.  Only by focusing on improving the soil can we ever achieve a truly healthy lawn with a decreased demand on fertilizer and other artificial stimuli.  The lawn pictures included in this blog post have only received one natural fertilizer treatment in the spring plus several compost tea sprays and kelp.  With the client’s good mowing and watering habits, it is clear that this is a great looking lawn, especially in August when most lawns are dormant and full of crabgrass and or broadleaf weeds due to record heat in 2012.

Compost tea is great for your lawn anytime during the growing season

Compost tea can be done at any time of the year and is known to be especially valuable in the spring to jump start the soil biology after a cold winter.  I like to use compost tea after seeding to increase germination, disease resistance, and promote healthy growth.  Compost tea increases organic matter, stabilizes a soil system beneath the lawn, and helps prevent issues by replacing lost organisms around the grass roots to create a more natural balance.  Compost tea is clearly valuable when used with sea kelp, natural fertilizers, and lime.  Everyone should consider tea not only for a cold summer drink, but for your lawn.

Your lawn may be rotting from a common disease: leaf spot.

Published by mrgrass2 on June 12th, 2012 - in Lawn Care Companies, Turf Disease
Severe leaf spot infestation

leaf spot disease

The past month has been very wet with a bit of heat mixed in for just the right amount of stress on weakened lawns.  Wet weather means your lawn is more likely to contract common diseases due to high moisture and humidity caused by rain or drizzle.  Leaf spot to a lawn is like having a common cold to humans.  Most lawns get leaf spot but it passes without much fanfare with the onset of summer and warmer weather.  There are occasions when leaf spot can manifest into a more serious stage, sort of like getting pneumonia from a cold.  This stage is called “melt-out” and is the result of a significant infection, large enough to cause damage to the growing point of the turf plant, the crown.  A weakened crown is susceptible to injury and plant decline, or even death, depending upon the weather. (more…)

Topdress and Aerate Your Lawn This Spring

Spring is a great time to fix your lawn before the summer heat moves in.

Spring is an ideal time to topdress and aerate your lawn; two steps that can really improve your lawn. Topdressing is a process where you add a thin layer of compost or soil on the lawn surface to add organic material.  This process is ideal for seeding as it makes a nice surface for grass to germinate.  Instead of adding yards or truck loads of soil and starting from scratch, some lawns can be salvaged with just ¼ to ½ inch of topdressing.  This process won’t bury existing healthy grass but fill in around it like water around an island, creating a great seeding surface.  Another benefit of topdressing allows you to seed over any weed or crabgrass barrier which may have been recently applied since doing so into the soil would be futile; it just won’t work because the chemicals prevent seed germination.

Spring aeration and overseeding is an excellent process which can help thicken up a lawn, with or without utilizing topdressing.  Aerate when soil moisture is good to enhance seed germination in the holes created by the machine.  (a line about overseeding?)

Everyone has some degree of winter damage or bare spots from plowing or salt use over the winter.  May and early June are ideal times to repair these often neglected areas of your lawn.  Addressing these weak links will make the entire lawn look better during the summer.  Left unchecked, bare spots will yield crabgrass and broadleaf weeds no matter how many times you spray.  The solution lies with replacing open soil spaces with healthy turf grass.  Perennial rye is a great grass to use in the spring because it germinates fast and is tough.  Crabgrass is a fierce competitor so the sooner you get “good” grass to germinate; the better off your lawn is as summer approaches.  No amount of spraying will suppress the inevitable weed infestation as bare soil heats up and fills in with fat crabgrass plants.

Take advantage of May and June’s cooler, wetter weather and get your lawn ready for summer before you leave for the beach this year!

Lawn care choices must be made with the onset of spring

Published by mrgrass2 on April 11th, 2012 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies
Don't be fooled into using fertilizer from companies on "dark side"!

While fertilizers are a part of a healthy lawn, they are only one piece in the puzzle.

 

 

There is no denying it, spring is upon us and soon your spring cleaning will end up outdoors with the yard.  Yes, the lawn will beckon for your attention and no matter how long you put off the inevitable, your shrubs and grass will demand attention.  Are you one of the many who do not relish the task of raking, mowing, and trying to maintain your own landscape?  If so, you are not alone and should not be ashamed to admit this dark secret.  In fact, many folks feel compelled to fertilizer their own lawn simply because everyone else is doing it.  In our business, we call this “keeping up with the Jones’”, a classic syndrome seen across NH and VT.  The pressure builds with each passing weekend to visit a local hardware store and buy flowers, gloves, shovels, rakes, fertilizer, and lime.  As each Saturday expires, you see time going through the hour glass; time you simply do not have.

Why would you continue to suffer when the cost of hiring a professional lawn care company can actually yield better results, save you countless hours, and even represent an economic savings in your bank account?  Quality is not cheap, but it may very well be less expensive than toiling for hours upon hours only to obtain the same results, be them poor to acceptable.  There is an appropriate saying, “doing the same thing over and over will not result in a different outcome”.  Sometimes a change is refreshing and the right thing to do, or at least worth considering that there are alternatives to maintaining a healthy lawn and landscape.

In the big world of lawn care, there are daunting choices to be made, promises and coupons are given without hesitation.  No wonder you are confused and skeptical about our profession and what it really costs!  No doubt your skepticism could be born from a bad past experience, perhaps with a large national chain or a “gentleman” in a pick-up truck with little or no experience?  Like revisiting a restaurant after having a bad meal, you simply cannot even consider the option of professional turf care.  Who can blame you?  I cannot.  But what I can say is there are lots of folks with lots of real experience in this business in NH and VT.  Professionals in every sense of the word that have the education and real field experience necessary to diagnose, prescribe, and care your lawn.

If the coupon or direct mail piece sounds too good to be true, it most likely is!  You are looking to save time, money, and receive the results most would expect from a professional lawn care company.  If the trucks look the same, they have similar marketing strategies and programs.  I hate to spoil your dinner, but there are no supersonic, ultra coated, magnetic, super powered fertilizers in existence.  There is a basic science of soil life and how it supports plant growth.  Yes, fertilizers have a roll, but are not the end-all to a healthy lawn.  I don’t care how many times or what you coat the fertilizer pellet with, the applicator’s skill level, treatment consistency, and amount of fertilizer applied are the key to quality results – period.  This fact applies to compost tea, lime, aeration, sea kelp, and yes- even fertilizer!

If the coupon does not fit, and if the gimmick seems slick and full of ideal promises, you might want a second opinion from a professional in the business, someone like me or a locally owned business in your own home town.  A great lawn can be yours without sacrificing your valuable weekends or draining your bank account.  You get what you pay for in the end so let it be effective and worth your hard-earned income.  Have a great spring!

Crabgrass in your lawn is more than just a weed problem

Published by mrgrass2 on April 10th, 2012 - in Crabgrass, Lawn Care Companies

Crabgrass solutions

Crabgrass is more than a crabgrass problem!

Enjoy your lawn this year without crabgrass

If you are considering crabgrass control this spring, consider solving the real problem as an alternative spring time lawn project.  If you have a crabgrass problem, you have more than just a crabgrass problem.  The root of the issue is likely unhealthy soil, compaction, and low organic matter; all of which contribute to an inferior lawn.  Most folks will focus on the symptoms of a poor looking lawn such as dead patches or crabgrass and not the underlying issues.  Most lawn issues can be directly attributed to bad soil.  Can there be bad soil?  Well, in a manner of speaking yes, there can be bad soil or at least soil that cannot successfully support good turf growth.  Healthy turf does not occur by accident; it takes a healthy soil to support a green, lush lawn.  Let’s take a closer look at why good soil is so important and why bad soil really can only support crabgrass or nothing at all.

Soil is supposed to be filled with micro-organisms in various percentages, nature’s way of supporting plant life through root systems.  A healthy soil will contain soil particles of various sizes (clay through sand), air spaces, and water.  An ideal soil will also contact organic matter and many micro-organisms such as bacteria, fungi, and protozoa, like in high school biology class (wicked cool).  Turf really appreciates a soil which has a higher bacterial count.  Now you know why grass is always so green over the septic system, an ideal environment for lots of bacteria, organic matter, and moisture.

Poor soil will have a low population of these micro-organisms; in fact, it may not have much, if any at all.  Low organic matter is another issue which takes away from a healthy lawn.  Compacted soils don’t have the air spaces necessary for roots to grow successfully because roots need air to survive.  Add a low soil pH and now you have locked up vital nutrients necessary to support healthy turf growth.

The bottom line is that a good lawn must be rooted in healthy soil.  Without moving forward with proper techniques to improve your soil, your lawn is destined to be a field of crabgrass and blowing dust each and every year. Growing a lawn is just like growing corn or any other crop – it has basic needs.  Crabgrass is much less fussy and will gladly move in without an invitation and stay all summer long, thriving in high heat with minimal rainfall.  Crabgrass is not the enemy; crabgrass is just an opportunist which seizes its ideal growing environment.  The real villain is bad soil that is devoid of air, organic matter, and micro-organisms.

Your real hope lies in compost teas rich in bacteria, fungi, and other “good guys” who helps improve a sterile and almost lifeless pile of dirt.  Sea kelp adds lots of organic matter plus a host of nutrients, proteins, and minerals.  Core aeration breaks up compacted soil, providing air pockets and the opportunity for rain to penetrate a hard surface area.  Organic fertilizers provide more organic matter and a plentiful helping of nutrients, not only the grass, but the living community below!  While crabgrass suppression can be helpful, the real cure lies in improving your lawn’s soil as a basic rule towards creating an outdoor living space that can be enjoyed instead of being cursed.

After a brutal summer, core aeration should be on your fall “to do list”.

2 commercial grade aerators at a job site

 

Core aeration or aeration is a physical process that utilizes a heavy machine called an aerator.  Similar to a garden rototiller, the aeration machine has a central shaft with 4 or 5 discs where the actual aeration tines are attached.  There are several types of aerators: some utilize solid tines while others are hollow, allowing the machine to extract plugs as it drives over your lawn.  These tines are designed to penetrate your lawn like using a cutter for cookies.  Most aeration cores will vary between ½” and 1” in diameter and will be left on the surface of your lawn.  The depth of a good core aeration job should vary between two and three inches.  Core length is dependent on soil moisture, the weight of the machine and its ability to push down versus roll over compacted soil, as well as the age or length of the tines.  Older tines become worn and must be replaced as they do not have the capacity to penetrate the soil with a blunt or worn tip.  If you are considering a rental aerator, be sure to check the tips of the tines – the more pointed they are, the better.  A blunt tine or one with a worn down tips will simply not pull a decent plug, although you may enjoy the exercise!

Aeration cores & holes

An aeration machine’s effectiveness is also dependent upon the weight of the unit and the speed at which is it used over the lawn.  The faster the aeration job, the less likely the machine’s weight can push down, forcing the tines into the soil.  In addition, most rentals are smaller, older units, enabling the average home owner to utilize the machine on a given weekend.  Although these rental units may do an adequate job in terms of maneuvering given their shorter width, a commercial grade aerator weighs hundreds of pounds more and is strapped with not only weights, but also with a drum full of water.  Basic physics dictates that using the right tool for the job, in this case a commercial aerator, will provide superior results.

 Aeration can be done any time of the year, but typically it is done in the spring or fall when soil moisture is greatest to ensure good plugs.  In addition, fall is the best time of year to over seed a lawn due to warm temperatures and more importantly, the absence of annual weeds like crabgrass that often interferes and reduces results.  Overseeding introduces superior grass varieties after an aeration job.  The seed germinates primarily in the aeration holes just like doing a hair transplant.  Overseeding is not meant to fill in damaged lawns with large patches or bare areas: this would be more in line with topdressing and seeding that could be done in conjunction with an aeration job.  Topdressing adds soil or compost in a thin layer allowing germination to take place in bare sections.  Overseeding adds new grass to an existing lawn area and small bare spots, and helps thicken up an existing lawn or thin areas.  Aeration and overseeding is not meant to establish a lawn or repair significant damage without the use of topdressing or lawn restoration.  Aeration is a great process and should be done annually to help maintain good soil health while minimizing compaction.

What are the benefits of Aeration?

-      Increased moisture penetration since the holes open up space for rain to reach the root system below.  The surface of the soil is hardened from high heat and summer drought, and a lack of rain makes the surface of the lawn much harder to loosen up due to the baking action of summer heat. 

-      Increased oxygen exchange (important for healthy roots) especially in compacted and dry soils.  Punching holes in the lawn will physically allow air to reach into the surrounding root systems, even as the hole begins to break down and fill back in with soil next spring.

-      Reduces soil compaction (especially soils high in clay) caused by those summer parties or high use.  Compacted soil does not promote healthy roots in grass or trees for that matter.

-      Increases penetration of fertilizers and other lawn products due to the holes being made.  The pellets or flakes simply roll into the plug and dissolve for faster results.

-      Increases rate of thatch decomposition due to micro-organisms being brought up to the surface in the plug itself.  There is no need to rake aeration plugs off a home lawn as they breakdown on their own in a short period of time.

-      Increases root development due to the vacant space created by the aerator tine.  The turf roots can expand outward and beyond in search of water, air, and nutrients in the soil.

If you don’t have aeration scheduled this year, give us a call and we can give you a proposal on aeration, as well as overseeding.  If topdressing is necessary, we can also give you recommendations on this procedure.  Aeration typically begins in mid to late August and runs right into October.  If you are interested or have questions on this important process, be sure to give us a call or e-mail anytime.  It will be back to school time before you know it!  Be sure to watch our aeration video posted on Flickr located on the home page of this blog.

Lawn watering, from green to brown

Watering your lawn is essential if you want to minimize browning

June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT.  While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days.  Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences.  For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January.  The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather.  I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight!  I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.

How can such a thing be prevented?  You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3,” not too short as to cause stress.  Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy.  A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.”  This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant.  A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days.  This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.

Classic drought stress brought on in June by warm weather and minimal rainfall

Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present.  Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity.  Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer.  If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.

Hot spots in a lawn should receive top priority when it comes to watering

When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown.  Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended.  Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves.  Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced.  Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly.  Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities.  If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat.  Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting.  In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all.  Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown.  Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints.  These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.

Lawn care treatment precautions: what you need to know

Published by mrgrass2 on May 16th, 2011 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

 

A common lawn care flag designed to grab your attention

You just arrive home and you see a lawn flag in your lawn, you don’t know what to do!  What precautions should you, as a homeowner, be aware of as it relates to lawn care treatments being made to your lawn by your lawn care company?  This is a great question.

Although lawn treatments will vary from liquid to granular, and from product to product, there are some basics you should be aware of regardless of the company you employ to care for your grass.  I prefer granular products because in general, no special precautions need to be made to you, as the homeowner or client.  Once the product is down, the majority of materials used do not require watering or even a waiting period before use by your family or pets.  Hurray!  In fact, even our broadleaf weed control products request that you do not mow or water for a few days for maximum results.  Wow, instructions to do nothing- I like this lawn program!  In fact, less than 5% of our lawn treatments require any special watering, mowing, or other unique directions to you as a home owner.

Lawn flags are required on commercial treatments in NH

Liquid treatments are another means to deliver a material to a lawn area or tree and shrubs.  As a general rule, these lawn treatments are diluted using water as a carrier and once dry, the lawn can be used for most activities.  Chippers’ “Essential Turf Care program” utilizes very few liquid treatments with the exception of some tick sprays, compost tea, or perhaps a non-selective weed treatment in your mulch beds.  Again, even these liquid treatments require no special action to be taken by you, as a homeowner.  Our program is designed to free up your time, not chain you to your lawn by adding more responsibility or duties.  Is it any surprise that our turf division has become so popular with our clients in NH and VT?

If you do have any questions regarding your lawn or other treatment, be sure to read the back of our flags or the door hanger left behind outlining what was done, when, who did it, and any special notes you may wish to read.  If you desire further information, call any of our offices during the week and speak to a real customer service executive, not an answering machine!  Your satisfaction is our top priority.

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