Posts Tagged ‘lawn weeds’

Weed Control: Pre-emergent vs. Post-emergent

Published by mrgrass2 on May 14th, 2012 - in Broadleaf Weeds, Lawn Care Companies

 

I have lots of folks asking the difference between treatments that claim control over annual broadleaf weeds, or pre-emergent weeds like spurge, vs. post-emergent weeds such as dandelions.  While this is often a very confusing distinction, a brief explanation will clear things up and differentiate between the two types of weed control.

Annual broadleaf weeds germinate beginning in late April and continue throughout the summer.  The early season crabgrass suppression treatment not only inhibits crabgrass, but these annual broadleaf weeds as well.  Therefore, these weeds don’t even germinate because of this first treatment in many lawn programs.  However, this type of treatment will not control existing weeds like dandelions or clover.  A subsequent treatment which targets these perennial or biennial broadleaf weeds works completely different by attacking the plants you see in your lawn right now.  This is done by contact with the leaf surface and by absorption into the root system.

Although there are some annual broadleaf weeds which will germinate later and not be controlled by the first treatment in April or May, subsequent weed treatments in a post-emergent setting will address those villains.  Another option to naturally reduce both annual and perennial/biennial broadleaf weeds involves turf building by adding compost tea, kelp, annual aeration/overseeding, lime, as well as natural or organic fertilizer.  A healthy lawn that is thick and growing will naturally crowd out a huge amount of weeds over time without the need for broadleaf weed control treatments.  However, many folks like to speed the process up by having a few select weed reduction treatments followed up by a conversion to natural treatments afterward.

So, if you are confused about pre-emergent weed control versus post-emergent weed control, I hope you feel a little better after reading this short blog post!  Have a great spring and don’t fear, “Mrgrass” is always near!

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Spring in NH & VT, take action on your home lawn!

Published by mrgrass2 on February 28th, 2012 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Broadleaf Weeds, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Lime
Spring is a time for action

Spring is a time for action

Maybe this is the year you have decided to take action and are simply not willing to accept the same old lawn you had in 2011.  If this is the year you have decided to act, then I have good news!  Your turf can look better, and with the right game plan, will provide enjoyment throughout the summer with visible monthly progress.  After all, why suffer through another year when this type of property improvement is generally fairly easy with predicable results?  The key to success is to just say yes, seek out professional help and get a game plan.  Once spring arrives, everyone gets busy and before long it’s July 4th or later!  Don’t let this spring slip away when so much good can be done to enhance your own lawn and property.

Spring is perhaps the most important time of the year to get your lawn on the road to improvement.  One big reason is looking into the future; do you want to enjoy the benefits sooner or later?  Later would be beginning in the fall, while sooner would be spring.  A damaged or thin lawn may require aggressive steps to help reclaim lost grass such as seeding, aerating, overseeding, or even crabgrass suppression to help get the ball rolling.  Waiting until fall gives the advantage to the enemy, like crabgrass, annual weeds, or even insects like grubs.  An idle lawn will remain just that, the same or worse as the year before without corrective measures.  Spring provides ideal grass growing weather due to moderate temperatures and ample moisture.  Cool-season grasses flourish in spring time weather like an athlete training for a race.  Not only must your lawn do well, it must do great in order to compete for light, water, space, and air in your home or commercial lawn.  This is competition pure and simple.

Just doing something will not do the trick.  Too much of a good thing can be bad as or worse than doing nothing at all.  The key is applying the right ingredients at the right time.  Picture in your mind making yeast bread with 5 times as much yeast as the recipe calls for- disaster!  Imagine this same concept when caring for a home lawn.  Some will put down ½ the required amount while others will easily double or triple the amount required.  Regardless of any burning or striping, the end results will be poor!  Take the guess work out of the equation and consider a professional to care for your property this season and spend your free time doing something fun instead!  This is the year to take action so you can feel good and your lawn will look great as well.

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To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

Published by mrgrass2 on May 10th, 2011 - in Broadleaf Weeds, Lawn Care Companies

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

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Crabgrass in your lawn

Published by mrgrass2 on July 21st, 2010 - in Crabgrass, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

There are many factors which yield a high crabgrass population in any given lawn area.  Last season, we had one of the wettest seasons in nearly a decade while this year we are in one of the hottest in nearly a decade.  The two extremes are just that- extreme and there are ramifications to a lawn.  To understand what happens in a lawn setting we must look at the weather, turf density, mowing height, and treatments.  Hot and especially dry weather will cause dormant crabgrass seed to germinate- typically in bare areas first (along roads, walkways, driveways) followed by thin sections in the lawn.  Crabgrass loves high heat and low moisture.  Seeds can remain dormant for years until the right conditions arrive, and then they germinate.  Normal rain, proper fertilization, and cutting height can usually minimize crabgrass in primary lawn areas.  Grass that has been treated with high soluble fertilizers and is not as healthy will be more susceptible to crabgrass infiltration.  The best defense is still a thick lawn, a high cut, irrigation if possible, and slow release fertilizer among other applications.  Some years are above or below average in terms of rainfall and heat- key factors in crabgrass germination.

Crabgrass plant

One year of crabgrass does not undo a lawn.  A pre-emergent barrier can be applied in the spring, but even that will degrade by late July or early August.  Luckily, crabgrass knows when the remaining growing season is insufficient to complete its life cycle.  Said another way, crabgrass seeds will usually not germinate past mid July.  So what you see now is going to be it- the plants will just become larger.  Again, a pre-emergent barrier can be used to help suppress, not eliminate crabgrass in thin or weak areas.  Most of these products are simply dyes and are not harmful in terms of the environment.  A pre-emergent product can be applied this fall (often overlooked) or next spring if you belive crabgrass has gotten a firm foothold in your lawn.  There is a trade off between putting down a barrier and seeding- so give this treatment careful consideration.  When desirable turf becomes stressed by high heat and drought, it provides an ideal growing environment for crabgrass by heating up the soil.  Lack of moisture further stresses desirable turf and enhances the ability of crabgrass to grow at exponential rates- real fast.

Mowing at 3”, mulching clippings, watering (1” per week), and a solid lawn health care program are all great defensive measures.  Adding a pre-emergent in the spring is another tool to help inhibit crabgrass but not eliminate it.  In a normal year, things would be in check and balance like in nature.  However, in extreme heat and drought- nature will win the battle and aesthetics will suffer- regardless of the plans in place.

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