Posts Tagged ‘european chafers’

White Grubs in your NH or VT lawn

White grub damage on a lawn

I was just finishing up some yard work today and noticed some rather large, creamy color, C shaped grubs worms in a few sunny locations.  Given the current grub size, they are most difficult to control without some aggressive attention.  You have a few choices in May to knock back a grub infestation in your lawn.  Dylox is one of a few materials that will address grubs in a large state with generally satisfactory results.  There are only a few organic options worth reviewing like concentrated cedar oils, and capsaicin extract blended with other oils.  In either case, a repeat treatment can often be necessary given the mode of action, time of year, and size of the grub itself.  Trying to use standard Grub-X will not work because the active ingredient is designed for small grubs, not big boys like you see in May in NH or VT.

Another option is not to treat at all and wait until summer to apply a preventative treatment which not only means the ability to use less aggressive products, but in lesser amounts with incredible control percentages approaching 95-99% in total effectiveness.  Preventative products are usually required in fewer amounts, are much more effective, and are more environmentally friendly as a result.  Grubs and other insects are vulnerable in a smaller state or size.  Therefore, it only makes sense that less product and/or active ingredient is required when being proactive versus reactive.

For anyone experiencing grub infestations, look for annual grub control in the June-September time frame for maximum results.  The cost of not addressing grub issues in your lawn can mean expensive renovations, especially if you have an open, sunny lawn or a prior history of grub problems.  Rose chafers, European chafers, and Japanese beetles all pose a serious threat to your lawn and garden as well as your tree and ornamental shrubs.

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Milky Spore Lore & White Grubs in your lawn

According to a 2008 University of New Hampshire publication on Milky Spore disease, there are more reasons NOT to use this product than to use it in your home lawn.  Milky spore has been around for decades and was the first biological control means for Japanese beetle grubs.  Milky Spore comes in a powder and consists of a bacteria.  The first reason not to use milky spore was the design, it was manufactured to control ONLY Japanese beetle grubs- unfortunately there are many more!  Other turf damaging grubs in NH & VT include Asiatic beetles, European and masked chafers, June and May beetles and armyworms.  So now you understand that even if milky spore could work, you would be controlling one grub out of many, not good odds.

The second major issue not to use milky spore is you must have Japanese beetles in your lawn in sufficient numbers to promote the bacterial population enough to expand and spread out in the soil.  Therefore, if you do not have a large japanese beetle population, one where you would likely see damage- why bother?  The third reason not to use milky spore in NH and VT is the fact that soil temperature must be between 60 and 70 degrees for 3 months.  The high soil temperature necessary does not occur in our region and the bacteria can take over 4 to 5 years to build up, under ideal conditions, with a high population of Japanese beetles!  Wow!  You might want to go buy that lottery ticket today versus buying milky spore.

The Fourth reason not to use milky spore relates to how Japanese beetle grubs must ingest or eat the milky spore in the soil, not come into contact with, but eat it.  To summarize, even under ideal conditions, purchasing and using milky spore disease is a serious waste of money and time especially since there are more effective organic/biological methods like Nematodes. 

Nematodes are microscopic worms that are applied to the soil in a water spray.  The nematodes then swim and attack the grubs while swimming in water between the soil particles.  Nematodes will attack and destroy all of the grubs found in NH and VT listed above.  They will also attack sod webworms!  Since there is no “golden bullet”, Nematodes must be watered into the lawn or they will perish so that usually means applying them in the rain.  The soil must have sufficient moisture content and you must target the grubs at the right life cycle stage.  Having a professional apply Nematodes is the only true logistical option at this time, and our company does provide this service in our market area.

There are also a large range of new products on the market, some that do not even require a signal word because they are so applicator and environmentally friendly.  In some states like Vermont- you must have a pesticide license even if you are applying organic products since it is considered a pesticide even if it is organic.  Please keep in mind some organic products are just as dangerous or more so than some newer manufactured products.  There are several key points to remember before using any “pesticide”, the first being is a treatment required and why?  Secondly, what are the best material(s) to use for the job with the least impact to the environment and applicator.  Do we need to treat the entire lawn or just a portion of it?  Can we live with a small amount of damage and renovate later, only treating that one area or should we treat a larger area with a different product at a different time?  These are all questions best left to the professional because without knowing insect or disease life cycles, product components, mode of action, and application method- things can go wrong real quick.  This does not take into account the potential waste of material and use of a pesticide that should not have been used, regardless of composition.  Doing the right thing, at the right time is harder to do than you may think.

I do hope you have learned something new today or perhaps confirmed something you already believed in regarding grub control.  In any event, as fall fades into winter- be sure you are ready next spring because if you do have grubs- they will be waiting and you should have a game plan lined up this winter to address that very issue.  Thanks for visiting my humble blog!

Be sure to the visit this UNH video link  http://extension.unh.edu/agric/turf/media/lifecycl.htm

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Lawn care companies & Japanese Beetles, Grub Control, plus Milky Spore

There are many kinds of bugs that can damage or even destroy parts of your lawn such as the grub of the Japanese beetle.  While they may be out of sight underground, their appetites for turf roots cannot be easily satisfied.  As a result, browning usually occurs all the way to large areas of dead grass in the spring or fall.  How can you save your lawn?  Can this evil beetle and its associates be stopped?  Take a deep breath as we take a closer look at this villain and his underground buddies.

Exposed White Grubs

To begin with, you must start with the environment.  Grubs live underground therefore they are considered a subsurface insect pest, as opposed to a surface one- such as a chinch bug or perhaps cutworms.  This is important because what method and material you may use to target the grubs underground is vital.  So let us move onto timing.  When can you kill them?  Well, there is curative- you have grubs and they need to die now or preventative-  you may have them or are likely to in the future so you treat ahead of time as insurance.

Before you treat anything, ask yourself a question.  Do you really need to do this?  Many lawns will tolerate minor grub infestations and do just well.  Just because you found a few in your mulch beds or garden while digging does not make for an alien invasion or epidemic!  An average lawn will tolerate grub feeding and not all grubs eat turf.  So, before you pull out the tank and flame thrower, ask for some professional advice or at least consider the multitude of choices available.

Grub control products have progressed a great deal in the last few decades in terms of effectiveness, amount of active ingredient required, ease of application, and environmental impact.  Before I proceed forget about Milky Spore, it does not work in New England and should be outlawed.  Most registrations have elapsed or are revoked which is why there is only a few on the market even though there should be NONE.  There is not a shred of scientific evidence or proof that one grub can be killed by this magical elixir in NH or VT.  While I normally do not take such a harsh stand on a topic, I simply cannot stand on the side line while people throw their hard-earned money.  Both Universities in NH & VT agree with this statement since it is at their training seminars that Milky Spore is akin to curing all of your aches and pains with just one teaspoon of “Uncle Jacks wonder tonic”.  Let us move onto more productive conversation.

There are a handful of different materials that will virtually decimate a grub population when used properly.  Many of these control products are only required in small amounts and last months because they are taken into the grass plant up through the root system.  As a result, these control products are very effective and pose a minimal risk to user and the environment.  One new product in particular does not even require a signal word (Danger/Warning/Caution) this is unheard of in the turf or agricultural industry.  Most of these products can be applied alone or blended with a fertilizer for improved results.  Some studies show that with proper irrigation, soil moisture, and fertilizer- a lawn is better protected due to the ability of the grub control material to be readily taken into the turf via the root system.

Most preventative control products can be applied from late May all the way into September in some cases.  The stage of the grub and the material chosen is imperative because not all will work at specific times or stages.  This would be like trying to stop an elephant with a broom, it just is not going to happen verses say a bulldozer- the tool being used and the timing is very important.

Nematodes are being bred and are being touted as a very effective organic if not biological control of not only Japanese but dozens of other beetle grubs.  I plan on using nematodes this year in my program and have done enough research to at least give them a try based upon my findings.  If stuff does not work, I just won’t use it- period.  Sorry, but clients do expect results.  There are lots of important things which must be done in terms of timing, watering, volume etc- but there is no denying these boys are chemical free!  I will report back in a later post the results and findings of how these treatments went later this summer.

Now is the time to research and have your lawn treated if you have had grub damage or problems in the past.  Remember, adult Japanese beetles are very difficult to control since they are strong flyers.  Good hunting.

The following link sums up the importance of timing and life cycles when selecting control products:

http://www.golfdom.com/turfgrass-maintenance/know-your-enemy?page_id=2

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