Posts Tagged ‘dethatching’

Crabgrass in your lawn

Published by mrgrass2 on July 21st, 2010 - in Crabgrass, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

There are many factors which yield a high crabgrass population in any given lawn area.  Last season, we had one of the wettest seasons in nearly a decade while this year we are in one of the hottest in nearly a decade.  The two extremes are just that- extreme and there are ramifications to a lawn.  To understand what happens in a lawn setting we must look at the weather, turf density, mowing height, and treatments.  Hot and especially dry weather will cause dormant crabgrass seed to germinate- typically in bare areas first (along roads, walkways, driveways) followed by thin sections in the lawn.  Crabgrass loves high heat and low moisture.  Seeds can remain dormant for years until the right conditions arrive, and then they germinate.  Normal rain, proper fertilization, and cutting height can usually minimize crabgrass in primary lawn areas.  Grass that has been treated with high soluble fertilizers and is not as healthy will be more susceptible to crabgrass infiltration.  The best defense is still a thick lawn, a high cut, irrigation if possible, and slow release fertilizer among other applications.  Some years are above or below average in terms of rainfall and heat- key factors in crabgrass germination.

Crabgrass plant

One year of crabgrass does not undo a lawn.  A pre-emergent barrier can be applied in the spring, but even that will degrade by late July or early August.  Luckily, crabgrass knows when the remaining growing season is insufficient to complete its life cycle.  Said another way, crabgrass seeds will usually not germinate past mid July.  So what you see now is going to be it- the plants will just become larger.  Again, a pre-emergent barrier can be used to help suppress, not eliminate crabgrass in thin or weak areas.  Most of these products are simply dyes and are not harmful in terms of the environment.  A pre-emergent product can be applied this fall (often overlooked) or next spring if you belive crabgrass has gotten a firm foothold in your lawn.  There is a trade off between putting down a barrier and seeding- so give this treatment careful consideration.  When desirable turf becomes stressed by high heat and drought, it provides an ideal growing environment for crabgrass by heating up the soil.  Lack of moisture further stresses desirable turf and enhances the ability of crabgrass to grow at exponential rates- real fast.

Mowing at 3”, mulching clippings, watering (1” per week), and a solid lawn health care program are all great defensive measures.  Adding a pre-emergent in the spring is another tool to help inhibit crabgrass but not eliminate it.  In a normal year, things would be in check and balance like in nature.  However, in extreme heat and drought- nature will win the battle and aesthetics will suffer- regardless of the plans in place.

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Lawn care companies & Japanese Beetles, Grub Control, plus Milky Spore

Published by mrgrass2 on June 8th, 2010 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects

There are many kinds of bugs that can damage or even destroy parts of your lawn such as the grub of the Japanese beetle.  While they may be out of sight underground, their appetites for turf roots cannot be easily satisfied.  As a result, browning usually occurs all the way to large areas of dead grass in the spring or fall.  How can you save your lawn?  Can this evil beetle and its associates be stopped?  Take a deep breath as we take a closer look at this villain and his underground buddies.

Exposed White Grubs

To begin with, you must start with the environment.  Grubs live underground therefore they are considered a subsurface insect pest, as opposed to a surface one- such as a chinch bug or perhaps cutworms.  This is important because what method and material you may use to target the grubs underground is vital.  So let us move onto timing.  When can you kill them?  Well, there is curative- you have grubs and they need to die now or preventative-  you may have them or are likely to in the future so you treat ahead of time as insurance.

Before you treat anything, ask yourself a question.  Do you really need to do this?  Many lawns will tolerate minor grub infestations and do just well.  Just because you found a few in your mulch beds or garden while digging does not make for an alien invasion or epidemic!  An average lawn will tolerate grub feeding and not all grubs eat turf.  So, before you pull out the tank and flame thrower, ask for some professional advice or at least consider the multitude of choices available.

Grub control products have progressed a great deal in the last few decades in terms of effectiveness, amount of active ingredient required, ease of application, and environmental impact.  Before I proceed forget about Milky Spore, it does not work in New England and should be outlawed.  Most registrations have elapsed or are revoked which is why there is only a few on the market even though there should be NONE.  There is not a shred of scientific evidence or proof that one grub can be killed by this magical elixir in NH or VT.  While I normally do not take such a harsh stand on a topic, I simply cannot stand on the side line while people throw their hard-earned money.  Both Universities in NH & VT agree with this statement since it is at their training seminars that Milky Spore is akin to curing all of your aches and pains with just one teaspoon of “Uncle Jacks wonder tonic”.  Let us move onto more productive conversation.

There are a handful of different materials that will virtually decimate a grub population when used properly.  Many of these control products are only required in small amounts and last months because they are taken into the grass plant up through the root system.  As a result, these control products are very effective and pose a minimal risk to user and the environment.  One new product in particular does not even require a signal word (Danger/Warning/Caution) this is unheard of in the turf or agricultural industry.  Most of these products can be applied alone or blended with a fertilizer for improved results.  Some studies show that with proper irrigation, soil moisture, and fertilizer- a lawn is better protected due to the ability of the grub control material to be readily taken into the turf via the root system.

Most preventative control products can be applied from late May all the way into September in some cases.  The stage of the grub and the material chosen is imperative because not all will work at specific times or stages.  This would be like trying to stop an elephant with a broom, it just is not going to happen verses say a bulldozer- the tool being used and the timing is very important.

Nematodes are being bred and are being touted as a very effective organic if not biological control of not only Japanese but dozens of other beetle grubs.  I plan on using nematodes this year in my program and have done enough research to at least give them a try based upon my findings.  If stuff does not work, I just won’t use it- period.  Sorry, but clients do expect results.  There are lots of important things which must be done in terms of timing, watering, volume etc- but there is no denying these boys are chemical free!  I will report back in a later post the results and findings of how these treatments went later this summer.

Now is the time to research and have your lawn treated if you have had grub damage or problems in the past.  Remember, adult Japanese beetles are very difficult to control since they are strong flyers.  Good hunting.

The following link sums up the importance of timing and life cycles when selecting control products:

http://www.golfdom.com/turfgrass-maintenance/know-your-enemy?page_id=2

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A word on irrigation & watering your lawn

Published by mrgrass2 on June 5th, 2010 - in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies, Turf Disease

Watering your lawn

There are a few things you can do to help your existing lawn before you have to add water.  The first cultural practice worth noting is mowing to a height of 3-3.5″, especially in full sun.  Mow only if you need to and do so in the am or late pm, try to avoid 12pm to 3pm when the sun is the highest and the grass is the most stressed.  Mowing during this time frame, especially in high heat (85 or above)- combined with dry conditions or turf that is already stressed will most likely cause more browning and or leave mower tracks.  Imagine the stress placed on a lawn that is already just holding on with dry, sandy soil.  Imagine then the additional moisture loss out of each leaf blade as you mow, the result can be quick and dramatic, browning within hours or days at best.  Once your lawn has shut off, either in patches or entire areas- it will take days if not weeks of solid irrigation to “restart” the growing process.  As I have said before, browning is a survival mechanism when your turf shuts off from growing due to a lack of moisture in the soil.  If there is not enough moisture, turf growth will slow down and finally stop.  During this process, your lawn will turn a dull, purple blue- to possibly white spots on the leaf blade- and finally to a tan or complete brown. 

Providing irrigation at the earlier stages will produce faster results than the later brown, the time frame can be from a few hours or overnight with light stress (hazy or dull green/blue) to weeks with all on dormancy and browning.  So what is a good rule of thumb when it comes to irrigation?  That is a complicated question so I will stick with the average home- without an irrigation system.  If you want a green lawn during the summer- you will have to irrigate at some point or prepare to see browning to varying degrees as rainfall comes and goes.  There are a few types of irrigation goals, one is to keep the lawn aesthetically pleasing and green.  The second would be to keep your lawn alive during an extending dry period- such as 3 to 4 weeks with an inch or less total.  Most lawns will require 1″ of rain per week to grow properly without experiencing drought.  Remember, grass blades are mostly water so to expect your lawn to grow and or stay a vibrant green in high heat and or lack of rain is simply not realistic.  Preparing your grass with slow release fertilizers, high calcium lime, sea kelp, and aeration are powerful tools which keeps your grass healthy.  Healthy turf will respond faster to irrigation, recover better, and withstand dry conditions- especially if mown correctly (3-3.5″). 

Watering your lawn for aesthetics is best if you can proactively watch for dull patches- if you do see one, hit it with water for 1/2hr to 1hr for a day or two.  You should see recovery fairly quickly if your turf is in good shape.  Most lawns have “hot spots” or zones which tend to dry out faster than the majority of your lawn.  If you know where these areas are, you can simply watch them and be prepared to water them more often than the rest of the lawn.  In some cases, those may be the only sections you water, so have your hose and sprinkler ready.  Don’t waste your water, don’t irrigate for hours upon hours, after an hour or so- you have provided enough and soaked the upper root zone. 

A general rule on watering- some water is better than none.  As a rule, watering in the early am to late am is the best time.  Watering at high noon or the afternoon will not burn your lawn, but a lot of water will evaporate- a waste of resources for sure.  If you cannot water until the afternoon to early evening- you are likely to set up your lawn to summer diseases like brown patch or red thread.  As a rule, keeping your lawn dry going into the night is your best option.  Again, diseases like brown patch are enhanced by high heat, humidity levels, and excessive soluble nitrogen (liquid fertilizer).  A light touch is often required in late to mid July to August if the heat and humidity arrives. 

Irrigation is usually required if you want green grass in the summer

Survival irrigation are for those of you who have sections of lawn that “suddenly” turned brown.  You wake up one saturday morning and go outside to get your newspaper- you glance up and parts of your lawn are brown!  When did that happen?  Well, likely it has been going down hill for a week or more and you just noticed the color change.  This is certainly not magic!  What can you do?  Why bother?  Well, if your grass is toast, a nice light brown like I enjoy my coffee- any water will help- believe me.  At this stage, your grass is close to dormant or dormant.  Don’t mow it and add more stress.  Any water will help keep the crown- the heart and soul of your lawn alive.  While most growing lawns need 1″ per week of rainfall, even if you water once for an hour or so, each week- you can keep your grass in a dormant state but alive.  What you don’t want to do is water vigorously for one week each day and then just let it ride for the rest of the month.  This kind of irrigation is survival irrigation, minimizing death and future dead patches.  Speaking of dead patches- this is a dangerous time for your lawn because you will never see damage inflicted by chinch bugs, cutworms, sod webworms, or grubs.  September rolls around and you chalk up dead areas to lack of water when in fact you had and still may have insect activity. 

Irrigation does not have to make you a slave to your lawn if you know what you want to accomplish and how your lawn reacts to heat and dry weather.  Break out those hoses and check your sprinklers today!

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Drought stress, high heat, and sun scald on your lawn!

Published by mrgrass2 on May 26th, 2010 - in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies

High heat sun scald on cool season turf

High heat can lead to all kinds of issues in and on your lawn including browning, drought stress, and sun scald.  To break down the process of high heat and or a lack of rain on your lawn, think of how you would feel leaving in the middle of the winter and arriving in a hot climate like Mexico.

Dormancy, drought stress, and mowing damage

The first stage begins as sun scald if the turf has been growing fast and you get some hot, sunny days.  The turf turns white and you may see blotches or patches in your lawn appear virtually overnight.  Cool season grass is exactly that, it prefers cooler weather- not the high 80’s or 90’s- such weather places a huge demand for moisture on a shallow root system.

 At first, there may be plenty of water in your soil, but after a few days to a week, that supply dries up and now the grass starts to suffer- it turns a dull- hazy purple with a blue tint.  This is the first symptom- drought stress- the grass is starting to dry up and is unable to meet the moisture demand of the leaf blade growing.  So now what happens?  The base of the plant is the command center, it is called the crown.  It cannot push out any new growth and now must shut down on emergency power to save itself.

  The second stage is browning- the grass visually turns brown as the once green leaf blades dry up and the crown starts to shut down to conserve what is left and survive.  The good news is, the sooner you water- the sooner your grass will reactivate and start growing again.  Typically, if you get water to your lawn in the initial drought stress mode, you can prevent or minimize subsequent browning and get things rolling again- keeping the grass green without tints of brown or drought stress.

However, if you allow the lawn to shut down and brown out, it can take weeks to a month to regain the green color and previous growth.  Simply put, once she goes brown- better turn around and keep the water running.  Therefore, targeting drought stress is your best option to prevent dormancy and a brown lawn during summer.

 The good news is most lawns just have what is known as “hot spots”- sections with thin topsoil, ledge, septic covers, or sandy conditions.  If you target these “hot spots” first, more often than not you can avoid watering your entire lawn in some situations.  Just look for the drought stress and water those areas instead of the whole lawn.

 What else can be done to avoid and or minimize browning and or drought stress?  Mow high, 3” minimum and don’t cut the lawn at high noon- this is not a western movie- mow in the am or late pm.  Better yet, if the lawn does not need a cut, don’t mow it at all- skip a week or two.  Your heavy tractor or mower will cause more damage by crushing delicate, weakened grass versus leaving it alone.  Fertilizing, liming, and other proactive treatments can keep the lawn healthier going into hot/dry weather and help the grass recover faster.  Avoid high soluble, quick release liquid fertilizer as this can burn and or cause an undesirable- unsustainable flush of growth.  Aeration can help break up compacted soil and allow water to penetrate the surface and down into the root zone.

 In another post, I will discuss when brown grass stays brown and dies.  This condition is not always just from a lack of water, but from insect damage.  Stay thirsty my friend. . .

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Lawn fertilizer- look in the mirror

Published by mrgrass2 on May 19th, 2010 - in Fertilizer

A great lawn is no accident

Fertilizers are like skittles candy, they come in a rainbow of colors and flavors.  Like oil base to acrylic paints – each kind of fertilizer is more suited to a specific purpose such as supplying nutrients to vegetables, flowers, or lawns.  Everyone has an opinion and there are lots formulations from liquid to dry to those mixed with insect or weed control materials.

A common misconception I run into is the pure amount of fertilizer required to generate a visual response in a lawn.  Said another way, if you put down 10lbs of 12-8-5 or 50lbs, what is the real difference?  Will it be greener?  When should you fertilize?  What kind of fertilizer should you use?  If you apply lots of fertilizer can you do it less often?  Do you always just throw some fertilizer around your flowers, you know- just enough- everything usually turns out just fine.  Well, while that may be ok for vegetable gardens or flower beds- the same rule will not work or produce results in your lawn.  In this area- guessing may be fun on a weekend, but it likely will not get you any real lasting results- even in the short term.  In a worst case scenario, you put down too much and damage or even kill sections of your lawn.  So what to do?

The first thing you must ask yourself is “why am I doing this”?  Do you want to really improve your lawn this year or are you just making yourself feel good because you always put something down in the spring and fall?  Second, do you care about weeds or are you just trying to green this baby up so you can sip your lemonade from the porch after work (or other adult beverage) and absorb the pure enjoyment of a green carpet?  After you answer these questions- please move onto the level 2.

Level 2- Pick your lawn level!

What lawn?:  You do not treat your lawn (why are you reading this?)

Whatever:  You put down 1 or no applications per year.  You see a bag on sale and give it a go but have no misconceptions, this is futile.

I try: You put down 1-2 treatments and usually upset yourself because deep down you care, but not enough to do more.  Your lawn is ok and actually might look nice in the spring.

Semi-Pro:  You have hired a professional company in the past and or have one doing something now.  You have tasted results and realize what potential exists but may sway from doing it yourself to hiring a company.  You understand the fundamentals of turf care and may complete 1-4 treatments yourself- even renting an aerator in the fall!

Mr. or Mrs. Green:  You have your lawn treated by a professional turf care company and expect results.  Although not a fanatic, you demand results on what you pay for- typically less weeds, crabgrass, and a velvety green carpet like dreams are made of. 

Dr. Turf:  You measure your grass height before you go to work each morning and strictly forbid children, pets, or any foreign object from walking or resting upon your luxurious turf area called your lawn.  Whatever it takes, do it.  Your lawn can be tracked by NASA and actually glows at night from the energy released.  To you my friend, I salute you.

Product selection will generally involve slow or quick release fertilizer treatments.  Slow release is more forgiving and allows you to apply more N per 1,000 square feet- the unit of measurement on how you treat grass.  Most programs will talk about N= Nitrogen because turf grass has varying requirements on how much it needs each season.  Most turf in New Hampshire or Vermont will require 3-5lbs of N per season.  This normally equates to 3 to 5 treatments per season, with 4 being the average.  Quick release, high soluble fertilizers are wonderful in the spring or fall, but after that- they risk pre-disposing your lawn to drought stress, disease, sun scald and other issues.  This includes liquid or granular formulations.  The benefit of granular treatments allows you to change the rate on site with the spreader as opposed to a liquid treatment where the rate is set like octane at the gas station.

If this post causes you to act- ask me a question, comment on the information, or call a local professional for advice like myself.  Enjoy your day.

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Aeration & Seeding for Your Lawn

Published by mrgrass2 on May 9th, 2010 - in Lawn Care Companies, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding

This is what aeration plugs look like

May is a great month to help your lawn move forward by aerating and seeding it afterward, often called overseeding.  This is normally a great time to aerate because the moisture content in the soil is high, allowing wonderful plugs to be removed by the assistance of deeper penetration by the machine.  Dry, compacted soil is very difficult to aerate even with professional grade equipment.  While you can rent small aerators, they are not the same in terms of weight, width, and tine health (length of the steel hollow spikes).  I maintain new tines on our machines that are key in breaking up the soil by removing 1″ diameter plug up to 3-4″ in depth.  Why aerate?

Benefits of Aeration.

-      Increases moisture penetration

-      Enhances oxygen exchange (important for healthy roots)

-      Reduces soil compaction (especially soils high in clay)

-      Facilitates penetration of fertilizers and other lawn products

-      Increases rate of thatch decomposition

-      Enhances root development

While power raking or dethatching is a process reserved for lawns with excessive thatch (1″) or more, you can overseed a lawn after aerating because of the holes created.  Aeration is also a form of dethatching.  Overseeding is done by using specific seed types for the lawn location and occurs by spreading the seed out over the entire lawn using a spreader.  The seed falls in the new holes and therefore makes great seed to soil contact, a necessary environment for good results.  Care needs to be taken when edging along mulch beds, walkways, and gravel driveways because the seed will grow and then becomes a weeding issue!  Some of the seed falls onto the plugs and ground which may also germinate,although this is not the main expectation.  Overseeding introduces new, superior turf into an existing lawn, especially thin and weak ones.  Overseeding can also assist in repairing damaged lawns if there are several passes to tear up the area or if topsoil is applied before applying the seed.  Again, the seed to soil contact is important.  Surprisingly, grass can grow in many soil types which you may not think possible.  The key here is picking out the correct grass type, seeding at the right time, and using the proper equipment.  May is normally ideal due to cool days and nights, yet the soil has warmed up enough to faciliate good seed germination.

Aeration & Seeding go hand in hand

Aeration & Seeding

Most lawns can benefit from annual aeration, be it in the spring or fall, while overseeding is left for improving existing turf in weak lawns or lawns needing increased density.  Of course, the next step is to get onto a good fertilizer and turf health care program to maximize the results as aftercare.  Treatments may include sea kelp to enhance the soil quality and a high calcium lime to improve seed germination/soil structure/and soil pH.

Aeration can be done as an annual process to help keep thatch in check and to prepare for overseeding.  While you can aerate and not overseed, you cannot overseed onto undisturbed ground without aerating first (unless new loam has been applied).  With such a short growing season, it really makes sense to consider one or both of these treatments if you want to move your lawn forward and receive the rewards of maximum results.  If you don’t want to do it yourself, find a local company like ours and have it done for you.  Most lawn care companies will provide a free estimate and recommend the grass varieties to be used at your location.  Good luck and may you achieve the lawn of your dreams this year!

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Lawn Care Companies Can Target Ticks

Published by mrgrass2 on May 2nd, 2010 - in Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects

Now that the month of May has arrived, most everyone in NH and VT can begin seeding projects, treat for broadleaf weeds, and apply a crabgrass barrier if desired.  May is typically a very busy month for most lawn care companies because they are not only implementing these treatments, some are able to treat for ticks.  While most people are usually aware that their lawn care company can treat turf, many are not aware of tick control.  Tick control can be a very valuable service, especially coming out of a mild winter which assists in the survival of adult ticks.  May is the ideal month for tick control because the adults are waking up and crawling out in search of food- animals or you!  While you may see a typical dog tick, you are not likely to see a Deer Tick, a primary vector of Lyme disease.  Therefore, treating your turf around the house and into the perimeter of fields or woods is an excellent means in which to reduce the adult population before they mate and seek out a blood meal.  May is the official tick month and with our mild past winter, this could be a banner year for all kinds of ticks in NH and VT.

Most tick control products can work for 2-5 weeks depending upon the rate and type of material used.  In fact, many new products are used in pet supplies and products found at your local pet store.  The key to safety is using a responsible, licensed lawn care company like mine not just Bob in his pickup truck.  You must have a license in NH or VT to treat for ticks, even if you use an organic product!  If you are targeting a pest, you must have insurance and have the training needed to treat for ticks.  So before you try this yourself, you might want some advice from a professional.  Ticks are nothing to mess around with and they can cause numerous diseases including Lyme disease a painful and expensive condition.

Deer, Dog, and other ticks

Ticks are difficult to see and detect

Enjoy the outdoors, but be sure to use an insect repellent to help protect your family and friends.  Better yet, get a quote for tick control!

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A Short Word On Spring Seeding

Published by mrgrass2 on April 25th, 2010 - in Seeding & Overseeding

While you may be satisfied with the overall appearance of your lawn perhaps something nags at you….. those few thin areas…. those awful bare patches!  It is though you have washed your entire car and it is shining like new, but there is one patch of dirt you missed – it just plain sticks out and must be addressed.  If you are considering seeding, that is a great idea, but there are a few pit falls to this practice especially in the spring.  What might they be you ask?

Spring is normally a time to prevent crabgrass (see an earlier post) and unfortunately, seeding and crabgrass or broadleaf weed control do not mix.  Unless you avoid your bare patches or thin areas completely with a spring fertilizer and pre-emergent, your best option is not to avoid sections here and there but not to apply those materials: it is just not practical.  Seeding can be done around a lime treatment, and if you use a high calcium lime coated with an organic acid, you get a boost in germination – very nice.  In fact, seeding with a natural or regular fertilizer with a high calcium lime is even better.  Let’s explore seeding more since the stuff is anything but cheap.

Grass seed comes in many blends, mixtures, hybrid types, general use, conservation mix, shade . . .  I could go on and on folks!  Have you checked out the price at your local store for a mere 5lbs?  Not cheap!  If you are looking at annual grasses (they die at the end of the year), now those blends will be affordable because they die in the fall.  Although they have uses for quick germination and holding a new lawn from erosion, you will need a more long lasting grass to establish a lawn or fill in bare patches long term.  Most folks will opt for a ”shade” blend, or a “play” blend… perhaps “full sun” or a pre-mixed patch type mixed full of fertilizer and a paper emulsion for easy application.  My first point is all grass seeds are different and have specific rolls for specific lawn areas, be it poor soil, kids that play, full sun, shade etc.  The key to setting yourself up for success instead of failure is to determine what goes where and when in the spring.

You cannot just throw seed on the ground and expect it to grow – that would be like putting your teenager in a car for the first time and saying “well let’s go.. drive”!  Not going to happen.  Let’s break seeding down into its raw components: timing, location, grass type, watering, and germination enhancing aides (fertilizer, lime, kelp etc).

First, don’t get too anxious. Avoid seeding in April as soil temperatures are too cold for the seed to germinate and things will dry out and die or at best, you have partial germination.  Waiting until May is normally your best bet.  Don’t jump the gun.  Next, what part of the lawn are you addressing?  A shaded front, a sandy back lawn that turns into a Kansas dust bowl come July, or a nice front lawn with adequate sunshine?  Each grass cultivar (variety) requires special attention and a specific grass type depending upon your need and ability to water or fertilize to the ability of the grass to do well in certain site conditions.

Tall fescue is my absolute favorite grass because new strains make it a thinner bladed grass plus it is adapted to dry sunny conditions all the way to shade!  What a great grass!  Did I mention I love tall fescue?  I use a triple blend of tall fescue as my primary seed grass in my ETC program.  Tall fescue is great for dry sections of lawn, sunny areas, shade, and where the kids play.  The down side: it does not hold the dark green color of bluegrass and is susceptible to some diseases.  Oh well, no one is perfect right?

If you have an irrigated lawn, or a show-case front lawn with decent loam, then I recommend my friend bluegrass with some associates – fine fescue and or some perennial rye.  There are many blends for this scenario. Look for blends with 3-4 types for best insect and disease resistance… usually a blend that adds up to 100% … read the label!  You get what you pay for here and this stuff is pricey but is the Lexus of lawn grass.

Shade is best adapted to some annual grasses, bluegrass, tall fescue and his cousin fine fescue.  There are all kinds of grasses that are tolerant to shade, I emphasis tolerant because one main recurring theme is grass not growing well in shade.  Planting turf does not always solve the problem. There may be factors affecting  the area like compaction, poor air circulation, or bad pH among other things.  This is where a professional like comes into play: you may need some advice first.

You can seed into new topsoil or compost all the way to overseeding after aeration.  Generally speaking, overseeding adds turf into an existing lawn, thin areas, or small patches but it does not address bare areas.  Bare patches or sections of lawn are best left to renovations small to large where additional loam or compost is added to create a seed bed.  Yes, grass likes a nice bed in which to grow, versus sitting on bare soil where it will likely dry out and die.  Seeding like that would be a waste of time and money.

So there is my little plug on seeding your lawn this spring.  Good luck and maybe you learned a little more today about grass than you knew before?

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Price & The Real Value of Lawn Care Companies In NH & VT

Published by mrgrass2 on April 22nd, 2010 - in Lawn Care Companies

There is a saying that goes “Peoople may know the price of everything but the value of nothing”.

We all recognize that the price of something is an important consideration when buying anything, lawn treatments included.  Are there any real differences between lawn company A versus company B?  If so, is it worth the extra or reduced cost to go with one over the other?  These are very good questions and they demand consideration because upon quick inspection, price is more than perception- it is what you value and desire- be it results, service, ease of communication- take your pick.  Price, unto itself is the summation of all of these things- or absence of them in many cases.

You are looking at the proposals, maybe you have 2 or 3 for comparison and the prices vary from dollar store pricing to more than double on another.  What gives?  As we dissect the proposal, we must consider known facts in each area of importance.  The components which add up to the price come from the products used, the employees doing the treatments, the service infrastructure of the company, training, and the program itself.  While there are certainly more, these represent the real meat that equates to what you are charged for a given treatment to your lawn in NH or VT.

All the products are the same; each company uses the same stuff and applies it at the same rate- comparing oranges against oranges- WRONG!  Nothing could be further from the truth! This statement would be like saying 75% ground chuck is a great meat just like prime rib or a filet.  Sure, they are both kinds of meat, but wow- you get the picture right?

So how does this relate to lawn products?  The large national companies like Trugreen utilize bulk manufactured, highly soluble, quick release fertilizer.  The branches dotting the USA have no say in what they receive, they get product X- this is like everyone getting 1% milk.  That’s it, no variation.  Does this fertilizer work?  Yes, but that is not the main point.  The most important facts with this kind of fertilizer are each office/branch fills each truck at a set rate, so everyone gets a certain amount of actual fertilizer.  It is set, like 87% octane- there is no changing it- so everyone gets the same generic mix.  While this may be ok in some situations, your lawn likely needs either more fertilizer or less depending upon your grass types, shade vs. sun, and let’s not forget the weather.  Speaking of the weather, this high soluble fertilizer is not good in the heat- so the amount of fertilizer added to the water is significantly reduced- yet you pay the same.  Are you enjoying the value now?  You have no idea what rate is applied, it is just mix X.

The price of your lawn treatment is based a great deal on the material to be used.  What do you think you are going to get for $29.99?  It is your lawn, not mine- your decison to make.  My job is to educate and inform.  The next important factor to consider is the applicator or employee- this includes the equipment used, the training, and applying the products themselves.  You hire a professional lawn company to care for your grass because they are supposed to know how to apply these products correctly.  In doing so, you receive the results you are looking for- otherwise, why not just do it yourself?  In addition, your professional lawn company should be able to spot potential problems during a visit.  Not every brown spot is drought or heat stress my friends.  So let’s expand on this theme.  The large chains hire dozens upon dozens upon dozens of new employee’s each year to meet the ever rotating staff.  So what?  Well, a few weeks of training on the road does not a lawn tech make, in fact, you probably have more experience yourself.  To be fair, this is not to say that these branches or companies do not have seasoned, qualified staff- because they do.  What I am saying is do you like to gamble?  Your likelihood of having a qualified, experienced technician is slim- it is just statistics.  If your lawn company is Trugreen- it has at least 50 field technicians, up to half or more usually have less than a few months experience to a year.  So there is your value.  Add up the total value of this service- the willing new employee, the material, and you get a $29.99 lawn treatment.  If that makes you happy, dial the phone- and that brings me to the next point- no local representatives.

Part three of value, you have a question and need to call the office- your call will be forwarded to a call center out of state.  A note will be entered, and each time there is a relay in information there is another person involved, another opportunity for a mistake or error.  These is not fictitious- or make believe, this is fact.  Who is your contact person?  Who sold you the program?  If you answer “A sales representative”, the big boys have a sales force like non-other.  Most have no background or relevant experience in this business.  Their job is to sell you the package, and sell it they will.  More value lost.  This is McDonalds of lawn care, would you like fries with your lime treatment?

As you have seen, there is a lot more behind the price than meets the eye.  There is more, but I must stop here- the main points are made.  Sure, we can talk about powered equipment that compact’s soil, tears up turf being operated incorrectly and so forth, but that is another post.  I could expand upon other product differences beyond fertilizer like types of lime (calcium vs magnesium), or sea kelp.  This is another story.

All turf or lawn companies are not created or run equally.  Before you say yes or sign on the dotted line, consider the points I have made, regardless of who you chose this season because the price does reflect upon what you actually get.  Believe someone who has first hand experience because information is power.  Good luck!

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Pre-Emergent Crabgrass Control in NH: The Coin Has Two Sides

Published by mrgrass2 on April 18th, 2010 - in Crabgrass

Baby crabgrass plant

If you have a lawn service or are preparing to treat the lawn yourself, you will likely want to consider pre-emergent crabgrass control now until mid to late May depending upon your location in NH or VT.  There are both positive and negative aspects of applying a pre-emergent in the spring depending upon the condition of your lawn, your future plans, and past issues.

The Good:

There are many types of products available and most not only reduce annual crabgrass, but also can help suppress other grassy weeds and summer annuals.  I often have a lot of clients point out rough looking grass in the early spring- saying, “See there…. my lawn is loaded with crabgrass!”  Well, crabgrass is an annual and does not even begin to germinate until late April through May (geographic soil temp) so any grass you are viewing now, is a perennial meaning it is there to stay.  Crabgrass usually germinates along the road or in bare areas that warm up first; you can see the little green sprouts with a little scouting like the one pictured above.

If your lawn has never been treated for crabgrass, depending upon the density and current condition, you may want to have a barrier put down to reduce this aggressive plant.  Left unchecked, crabgrass will thrive and take up vital lawn space- winning the battle while drawing upon space, water, and nutrients- leaving less for your desired turf grass.  Yes, like an older brother that gets most of the dessert and dinner, standard turf grass is not genetically adapt to thrive in the presence of crabgrass- a superior plant.

Crabgrass control also helps reduce summer annuals which can also be a bonus in a weak lawn.  I say suppress because many homeowner’s think crabgrass control is 100%, nothing could be further from the truth.  While a pre-emergent can help suppress the noxious plant, it breaks down over several months and will never stop growth in bare areas.  This brings me to my next point- the condition of your lawn- what is the current condition?

If you have large bare areas along the driveway, or sections completely absent of turf- I would urge a different course of action such as reseeding or perhaps some light renovation.  While most lawns can be treated and improved “as is”, there are many that simply would benefit more from the addition of loam or compost instead of a chemical barrier that will fail in weeks anyway under such stress.  My turf division offers light renovation to complete lawn installations- unlike the big National chains that do not.

The Bad:

Most crabgrass barriers, once applied, will remain in effect for about 2 to 3 months maximum depending up culture practices (mowing/watering) and the overall lawn density.  This means no seeding because most products inhibit not only crabgrass, but your seeding work as well.  Again, the best offense is a great defense- in this case, turf density.  Superior lawns take hard work; they arrive from turf building by mulching your clippings and applying fertilizer on a regular basis.

If you are unsure which course of action to take, don’t flip the coin and decide yourself, call up an expert like me and I’ll take a look.  If you live outside of my service area, send me an e-mail with a picture or call up a local lawn company with a good reputation.  Whatever you do, don’t call up the large National chains since they are in the business of applying tons of crabgrass control and cannot offer any renovation work should it be required. In addition, their sales force does not have the agronomic experience or training necessary to make an accurate diagnosis.  Enough said.

Good luck and have some fun making your lawn look great this year.  We don’t have many months to make an impact in NH, so don’t wait around- get a game plan and move forward!  Information is power.

Crabrass has a lighter green color

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