Tag Archive for "damage" -

Posts Tagged ‘damage’

What large piles of snow mean to your lawn this spring.

Published by mrgrass2 on February 2nd, 2011 - in Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Misc., Turf Disease

Snow banks promote turf damage

Many are wondering what sort of impact so much snow will have on the average lawn come spring. Generally, a decent snow cover protects your lawn from the drying winds and low temperatures common to winter weather. However, if that same snow becomes compacted by use such as walking or driving; the grass can be damaged while in a dormant state. Winter-kill or winter damage can often be attributed to ice formation or compaction through use. New grass planted the prior season is especially vulnerable since it has not had a chance to mature which may result in thinning or dead patches from a harsh winter.

Snow mold is a more widespread problem resulting in various degrees of turf damage and thinning. As snow banks recede and the weather warms in March, snow mold can thrive on the surface where the moisture level is just right and the temperature remains cool. Snow mold has a tendency to matt down grass which is why a gentle raking is so important to help dry out the lawn surface once the sun comes out. Improving the air circulation at the ground level and helping warm the soil through raking is a basic, yet important spring time task.

Grass which is severely stressed, or perhaps growing in the shade may in fact be further damaged by a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier while in a weakened state. Most manufacturers of crabgrass barriers recommend a reduced rate or waiting until recovery has begun in May versus a March or April application. In some situations, providing a basic natural or slow release fertilizer can speed up the recovery time as the soil warms and the material gradually takes effect versus a quick flush of growth from conventional fertilizers. Since there are many variations to winter kill, ice damage, and snow mold within the same lawn and surrounding neighbors- a single solution is often not practical. Each lawn should be evaluated individually, not treated with a cookie cutter approach where one product fits all situations.

So, before you apply a hundred pounds of fertilizer mixed with a crabgrass preventer this spring- consider the additional stress you may add to an already weakened lawn. If you have thin or bare sections created from snow mold or winter kill, once that crabgrass barrier is down, there is no turning back and no seeding until fall. There is a saying that goes something like “think twice, then think again, then act once” . . .

Tags: brown grass, brown lawn, damage, grass, gray snow mold, lebanon lawn care, pink snow mold, snow banks, snow mold, spring, spring cleanup, trugreen, turf, upper valley lawn care, winter damage, winter kill

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Ten Reasons to improve your lawn in NH or VT

Published by mrgrass2 on January 25th, 2011 - in Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

The Environment #10 and #9

#10 A healthy lawn reduces water runoff and soil erosion which in turns protects our lakes and streams from sediment moving from the land into the water. Turf is a living filter which protects ground water quality through a vast network of roots, thatch, and leaves. There are many lawn products that can be used close to or up to the water without harming that ecosystem such as lime, kelp, and further back slow release products.

#9 A healthy lawn will absorb 6 times as much rainfall as a common hay-field. A healthy lawn entraps pollutants and with the help of soil microbes, biodegrades them safely. Coating grass seed with mycorrhizae improves turf defensive capabilities against insects and disease issues often reducing the need for fertilizer in a calendar year. Compost tea is a perfect example of how to improve the soil and help your lawn simultaneously.

Functional Benefits #8 thru #4

#8 A healthy lawn dissipates heat and reduces the energy required to cool homes and buildings- thus saving energy.

#7 Turf grass abates noise and reduces glare.

#6 A mown lawn decreases disease carrying ticks and reduces fire hazards near wooded areas.

#5 Well maintained turf grass reduces injury from sports played at home, school, or elsewhere.

#4 A well cared for lawn is actually a low-cost asset that can be physically used or enjoyed for pure viewing pleasure.

Health #3 thru #1

#3 Studies show the cycle of growing grass and the color green lift human spirits and provide both thoughts and feelings of happiness, privacy, and serenity.

#2 Well maintained turf is known to have therapeutic effects on humans as measured by heart rate and blood pressure- increasing recovery rate of hospital patients.

#1 Hiring a licensed, experienced turf professional will help you accomplish some if not all of the benefits above while insuring the job is done correctly. Free up valuable time and spend it with your family or friends!

As you can gather, grass is simply more than just a lawn! Winter is the perfect time to explore the advantages of utilizing the skills of your local turf care provider. Perhaps this is the year to explore natural or organic products? Stop guessing and wondering if you are putting down too much or too little material while wasting your valuable Saturday or Sunday. Send that e-mail or make that phone call today and get your lawn on the right path in 2011.

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A dirty lawn!

Published by mrgrass2 on November 3rd, 2010 - in Cultural Practices, Misc., Turf Disease

Cut short & remove the leaves before winter!

A dirty lawn covered with leaves and left uncut entering the winter is at great peril for winter damage. Besides blocking sunlight in the late fall before snowfall, leaves restrict normal air circulation and the ability of the lawn to dry out. Even small piles of leaves can mulch or weaken your grass in mere weeks if left uncollected. Those same piles or heavy leaf cover will freeze and inhibit air circulation under the snow- a recipe for disaster. A clean lawn is a happy lawn!

Now is not the time to retire your mower in early November, especially if the grass is still over 3 inches in height. Your lawn has the potential to still grow another inch or more before snowfall and that added length predisposes your turf to snow mold! Matted, wet turf is an ideal habitat for mice, snow mold, and ice damage. Do yourself a simple favor this weekend or afternoon, cut your lawn down to 1.5” and help give your grass an edge going into winter. No one likes a dirty lawn! Clean up your lawn today and sleep well tonight!

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Review your lawn contract before renewing

Published by mrgrass2 on October 19th, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Ice Melt, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Lime, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding, Turf Disease

If it seems to good to be true- you may be right

Did your doctor ever tell you to get a second opinion? Hundreds of commercial lawn care contracts will be mailed out shortly to residential homes in remote parts of NH and VT. Even more lawn contracts will be mailed out to commercial customers in the hopes that those in the appropriate position will sign, mail, or simply fax it back with no questions asked. I propose that each contract deserves not only a second opinion, but a thorough examination line by line item. The national and larger regional lawn care companies typically roll your program over from year to year.

Most lawns are not being examined to determine true needs but rather recycled in archives from prior years like a CD player on repeat. While this automated process may approach adequate at best, I sincerely doubt you are receiving a turf care program worthy of your hard-earned dollars. Furthermore, I doubt most existing clients even understand what they are receiving and why versus what is available in their market area. Let me expand on this theme.

Many remote lawn accounts are labeled and classified as ”commercial”, with most customers unaware of this practice. These kinds of accounts are processed at a high volume utilizing heavy machines called Turf-Trackers or even tractors. These machines do a decent job on large properties or fields but are anything but light and are not ideally suited to home lawns or smaller settings. An inexperienced operator can easily cause damage while running the machine over frost covered lawns, shaded locations, and especially slopes. Turf can be easily torn, compacted, and ripped up without careful attention from the driver. These machines make it easy to operate at an aggressive speed as they work to achieve the goals set for them by the larger corporate office. If these facts don’t cause you to raise an eyebrow, please read on.

Unfortunately, many of these “commercial” contracts are recycled revenue without any fresh investigation data to support the renewal. In fact, I would wager that most if not the majority of these accounts are seldom looked at beyond the production dollars they represent each year. Simply put, the large national chains are usually too far away and their attempts to service remote regions often severely stress their limited staff and outsourced customer service centers. Most national lawn care companies utilize lawn programs like McDonald’s “Happy meals” except without the toy because you get a few fertilizer visits, grub control, and a lime treatment. Who would question that?

Does your phone call get forwarded to a call center or does a real person answer your call? Are you able to reach your lawn care office or do you even know where it is? Are you supporting your local economy or something much larger?

How can these large lawn care services claim and advertise to be local when they drive nearly 2 hrs to service lawns in remote areas of NH beyond their primary service market? Is that local service? Again, any company that pre-mixes fertilizer in a liquid medium and then applies it to every lawn in a single day is doing their clients a basic injustice as outlined in my blog post (http://mrgrassblog.net/2010/04/22/price-and-the-…awn-treatments/ ‎). Mixing concentrated fertilizer into a liquid is an easy and inexpensive way to administer a lawn program. As I said before, yes it works well for some lawns but not all lawns. You get exactly what you pay for with this type of treatment, a quick buzz of green. There are lots of natural and organic alternatives to this kind of turf care.

Before you sign on the dotted line, before you pre-pay for your entire year upfront- get a second opinion from a local lawn care company. I welcome the questions and the challenge to take your property to the next level. If you are not in our service area, I have companies I can recommend to you- just leave a comment to this post. Even if you decide not to make a change, doesn’t it just make sense to get another opinion like a car or house repair? Don’t just sign without thinking about what things could be like in 2011. I know it’s easy to just send the lawn contract back, but a free second opinion from any other turf health care company is time well spent. Make this winter the time where you decide to explore what has been going down on your lawn in the past and why! Support your local economy and research who services your town for lawn treatments. Exploring new options can be educational, fun, and you might even receive better results!

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Lawn Pesticides and the rainbow of emotions

Published by mrgrass2 on October 18th, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Lime, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding, Turf Disease

I normally don’t write on the topic of lawn pesticides because it is so vast, involves emotions, has supporting scientific data on both sides, and has so many people who claim to be ”experts”. There are some who would request additional laws through legislation given their own unique perspective on an industry I have worked in for over 24 years. Unfortunately, these very factors create confusion because most people are not aware of existing oversight from state agencies concerning laws already functioning within the scope of lawn treatments and specifically pesticides. On a happier note, there are already stacks of laws restricting, monitoring, and enforcing the use of pesticides in a lawn setting within the state of New Hampshire and Vermont. Both states have divisions within their respective departments of Agriculture. In either state, you must pass a written exam which is very comprehensive in material and substance in respect to the license you desire to obtain. For instance, if you want a turf license, you must take a turf category exam which tests life cycles and specific pests relative to turf or lawns. In addition to this, you must also take what is commonly known as the “core” which consists of basic terms and laws relative to using pesticides in each respective state. Items such as reading the label and rates are covered as well as important safety protocol among lots of other subject matter. If you wish to get another license, say for treating ornamental shrubs, you must take another exam- but you do not have to repeat the “core”.

In both states, your license expires after 5 years so you must either keep up on annual certification credits or retake the entire set of exams. Each license requires its own set of credits so this often involves a lot of training during the winter months to accrue enough points to renew every 5 years. In either state, you must have a minimum grade in order successfully pass, become certified, and have a license issued in your particular category. In New Hampshire, at least one person within a given company must also obtain a higher class license (Supervisory) like a manager who oversees his or her employees who have an operator class license. The Supervisory level person must then take the exam again, receive a higher score, and pass an oral examination to receive this “Supervisory Level” class license. As you might imagine, this is most delightful and lots of fun . . . NOT. As you might have already surmised, all of this licensing and continuing education helps to keep the industry informed on the lates products or issues at hand, monitors product being applied per state and acre by filed reports, and provides a great deal of accountability.

There are different classes of licenses ranging from commercial, to commercial not for hire, to private. These classes cover home farms, to golf courses, to commercial lawn companies who treat businesses and residential home lawns. Each has overlapping general rules in NH but each has specific regulations that must be adhered to as part of best practices when dealing with pesticides. As you may have concluded by now, there is already a lot of regulation regarding pesticide use in NH and VT. Bad decisions cannot be prevented by adding legislation already on the books designed to watch and monitor any business involved with pesticides. However, nothing substitutes or compliments intelligence quite like common sense. Making good daily decisions on what products to use, where to apply them, appropriate rates, and when not to treat for issues are all very important to a high quality, reputable business. Simply put, it’s the right thing to do.

Real trouble arises with a lack of experience and businesses who do not become licensed yet illegally apply pesticides. Real trouble continues when a home owner can purchase similar or the same products at a Home Depot/hardware store and then treats for the wrong problem, at the wrong rate, at the wrong time of year because they did not know the pest life cycle. I can assure you, there are millions more “Do it yourself” folks out there treating their own lawns or pest problems than all of the commercial lawn companies combined in either state- or the USA for that matter! The pure volume of these numbers speak for themselves. Who do you think is more likely to inadvertently make a mistake, the employee equipped with a state license with training or ”Mike” on the weekend?

As for pesticides, I have read that the sole intention of a pesticide is to kill- and by definition this would be correct. However, vinegar used at a higher concentration is used as an organic herbicide and can burn your cornea or cause serious injury. It’s still vinegar but it can be used as a herbicide too. Very interesting. I believe in using the right tool for the right job. Should everyone be “saucing” up their lawns just for aesthetics? Maybe not. This question is all in the eye of the consumer. We do live in the United States where choices can be made? We all have the right to make choices, all within reason- within the laws established by our government. Perhaps there are alternatives. There are materials and pesticides that exist which are in fact more environmentally safe than just 5 years ago. Like colors on the rainbow, the industry of lawn care continues to change in favor of less pesticide use and more education. This statement means there may be a time and reason for using a particular product, but only after ruling out alternative measures.

For instance, does every lawn have to be weed free? Most likely not. You can reduce pesky weeds in your lawn by keeping it properly cut and healthy. You can reduce nuisance weeds by aerating and overseeding, by doing many little things correctly. Who is willing to step up to the plate? What is wrong with treating for weeds maybe once or twice a year to knock back the population complimented by a turf health care program? What is wrong with living with weeds? To each his own may best sum this up, with a dash of compromise.

The issue of pesticide use will always be a hot topic, and it should be for many reasons. However, additional government regulation and control may not be the best and first answer over education and common sense. Information is power and those who rely on emotions and not real information are at a disadvantage. This is my humble opinion for today’s post. I hope you learned something new today, use it!

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October Lawn Care in NH & VT

Published by mrgrass2 on October 4th, 2010 - in Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

What is potassium? Why put it on your lawn? These are very good questions. Potassium is a mineral which helps grass, second only to nitrogen in quantity and importance. Most people know of N-P-K, well the last letter stands for Potassium. Potassium has a special role in stress tolerance, heat tolerance, disease resistance, and root development. Most soils in NH and VT are low in potassium, in part because it is so soluble and does not hang around very long. Applying a rich potassium application in the fall will allow the turf to store up the energy necessary to become hardy for winter. Although most balanced fertilizers will contain potassium during the year, that level is only a fraction of what is put down in the fall in a full-scale, 100% potassium application. A great time to apply this product is September and October. Do yourself a favor, give your lawn a banana before winter so it can prosper not only next spring, but survive the winter cold.

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Excessive grub activity is going undetected in NH lawns

Published by mrgrass2 on September 28th, 2010 - in Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Misc.

If your lawn is brown, don’t assume it is merely drought damage or continued drought given the dry weather pattern in NH. Many lawns are being eaten right now by white grubs of all kinds. White grubs are in bountiful numbers given the past dry, hot weather in NH & VT. Unfortunately, many homeowners and commercial locations are not aware of this damage which will continue well into early November. Many landscapers do not have the education or proper state certification and licensing to diagnose and treat complex lawn problems. Left unchecked, grub damage can destroy sections if not entire lawn areas within weeks to months if left untreated. The news gets worse! These grubs will hide and wait until next spring, then the feeding will start again! Many brown turf areas can be infested with grubs because many will assume the area was caused by drought and high heat. While this may be true for some, other lawns will continue the downward spiral without appropriate action this fall or at best next spring.

Look for animals digging like crows, ravens, or skunks at night. The turf will be easily uprooted since the root system is being attacked and cannot grow fast enough to anchor the grass to the surface. Focus on sunny areas, along driveways or walkways. Hot, or sunny areas are prime locations for beetles to lay their eggs for the next generation. Your grass may be brown mixed in with green but when exposed, the trained eye can find grubs of varying sizes and types. There are many products which can be used to control grubs including chemicals and nematodes. Each claims success under various conditions and instructions to the home owner. Don’t assume that picking up a bag at Lowes or the Home Depot will insure results. Unfortunately, there are many products aimed at specific periods in the life cycle of grubs so a bag of ”Grub X or Milky Spore” applied in the fall does not mean it will work. You must read the label or call a professional to determine if your $30 investment will actually work or just make you feel good. If in doubt ask- don’t simply apply materials to your lawn without understanding the ramifications, that would not be environmentally responsible. While grass is important, what you do to the environment is more important. This is why professionals like myself must train, take written plus verbal exams by state agencies, and work in the field to gain “real world” experience.

Don’t let brown areas go unchecked, go call or e-mail a reputable lawn care company like mine. Speak with a local professional with appropriate licensing and experience to give you the real answer. Your lawn need not be damaged with proper information to back up appropriate action!

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Fall lawn treatments in NH & VT

Published by mrgrass2 on September 24th, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lawn Pests, Bugs & Insects, Lime, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding

Fall is an excellent time to repair the damage caused by the summer of 2010. Now is the time to act. Now is the time to prepare your lawn for next spring by adding new grass to brown or bare spots. Even if your lawn seems ok, there is always work which can be done to improve it for next year. If your lawn suffered from the hot, dry weather of 2010 don’t think you are alone. Most grass suffered under minimal rainfall, above average temperatures, and brutal heat which in turn promoted insect and drought damage. Don’t be fooled and think your lawn is brown simply from a lack of water or heat. Any brown areas in your lawn in September or October can be prime indicators of chinch bugs, white grubs, sod webworms, or other noxious turf pests. If you are in doubt, have an expert examine your lawn because many of these pests will not go away. In fact, they will overwinter and return next spring only to continue the population explosion and expand their dominion conquering your lawn and raising the flag of victory. The problem is, the flag is not your’s and will only mean expensive renovations and possibly drastic measures to eliminate the enemy.

What procedures should you consider? Aeration is at the top of the list and can be done up until the ground freezes in November. Seeding after aeration is called overseeding and is a great procedure. For most of us in Upper Valley region, we can seed well into mid October and still expect decent results in most years. Depending upon weather conditions, seeding later is a roll of the dice and results may be reduced by the onset of early snow or unusually cold weather. Have sea kelp applied to your lawn to improve root density and promote organic matter. Let us not forget lime, our old friend who will adjust soil pH so fertilizer works better. Of course, applying a high potassium fertilizer in addition to a standard balanced fertilization is wonderful- especially in October. Potassium thickens cell walls and makes the grass more resistant to drying out, ice and drought damage. Many benefits are derived from a late season balanced fertilization which is not intended to push top growth, but become stored for use next spring in the root system and soil environment. The tougher your grass, the better it can withstand ice, cold, and the drying winds of winter.

In summary, a lot of things can be done in a very short period of time to provide a whole lot of benefit to your home or commercial lawn area. Don’t miss the window of opportunity to enhance your brown lawn this fall.

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Fall Seeding replaces crabgrass

Published by mrgrass2 on September 14th, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding

A very common question I hear is, “When is the best time to seed your lawn?”. My answer is usually the same due to a few basic factors. Fall wins over spring for a few key reasons. The first being the soil is already nice and warm- ideal for faster seed germination with sufficient moisture. Spring soil is usually cold and even after weeks of warm weather- soil temperatures do not reach into the low 50′s until mid to late May. Any colder and the seed tends to stay dormant and dry out. Therefore, fall is perfect for seeding since the soil temperature is already much higher than this- allowing for faster germination periods which means a better lawn for you.

The second reason is the competition- crabgrass and annual weeds like spurge and oxalis are just germinating in the spring- growing and fighting for space, light, water, and nutrients. Spring seeding and especially summer seeding can often spell disaster because crabgrass will grow so much faster than the seed you planted. This is an unfair competition because soil laden with crabgrass seed will win every time- even more so in hot, dry weather. In the fall, these plants are all dying! Hurray! Yes, the bad guys are dying and cannot harass your new grass. Therefore, you have two very big reasons to seed in the fall over the spring because its your time and money. Why not take advantage of the next 6 to 8 weeks and do a little lawn fixing? It will be an entire year before you see can seize this opportunity again.

If you seed now, you can apply a crabgrass barrier next spring and help suppress all the bad guys I mentioned above. If you wait to seed until spring, you will have to forego crabgrass control- unless you pay for a unique product that is VERY expensive which allows seeding and a crabgrass barrier to be applied at the same time. For most folks, seeding in the fall and applying a solid barrier in the spring makes the most sense- don’t make the fight uphill, go with the flow and take advantage of each season according to the life cycles and maximum benefit you can derive! Get seeding today!

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Prepare for fall lawn projects

Published by mrgrass2 on August 23rd, 2010 - in Aeration or Core Aeration, Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime, Misc., Seeding & Overseeding

September is almost here! What plans to you have for your grass this fall? If you are like most people, you know something should be done, but just don’t know what is important. Like most lawns, summer can be a tragic event with high heat, summer weeds, crabgrass, and browning- a distasteful combination for sure! Don’t lose hope, things can be done to turn your lawn around before winter. Fall is an ideal time to consider several applications that will give you the most for your green dollar.

Start simple. Don’t tackle a lawn project without starting out simple. An easy fall lawn treatment would be lime. Lime has a multitude of benefits and helps fertilizer function better. Like a great hair conditioner lime raises soil pH thereby making most fertilizer nutrients more available to the turf roots. Since it is difficult to apply too much lime, this is a simple, hard to mess up application for the most part. Try to use high calcium limes or at the very least, pelletized dolomitic limestone. Stay away from crushed limestone as it makes a mess and takes a very long time to actually work – months upon months vs weeks for the others I mentioned. So if you do anything this fall, put a good- heavy application of lime down to sweeten your soil.

As your brown lawn comes out of dormancy it will be looking for nutrients to begin the recovery process. Like a multivitamin in waiting, your lawn will benefit tremendously from a balanced- slow release fertilizer. Don’t worry so much about the analysis (the numbers like 10-5-19 etc), but try to select a nice balanced product. There are more fertilizer combinations than ice cream flavors so don’t be intimidated.

Aeration and overseeding are big fall treatments that can make substantial gains in a healthy lawn or one that has taken a hit due to drought and or thinning from disease or insect damage. Aeration will help with compaction, air, water, and nutrient availability plus it makes holes for overseeding. Overseeding will not establish a lawn but it will add superior turf to an existing lawn or a thin one. Topdressing and seeding can be used at the same time for bare patches or if small sections of the lawn have perished. Don’t be too quick in pronouncing grass dead- just because things are brown does not indicate dead turf. Most turf will brown out as a normal protective measure due to heat and or lack of moisture. Lots of grass can break this dormant period after cooler weather and some significant rain- this process just takes time- patience is key.
On the other hand, extended drought- short mowing- and or insect damage may result in turf thinning to all out destruction in a variety of sizes. If you are in doubt- have a professional check and give you the diagnosis before starting over from scratch something that can be come very time-consuming and expensive.

Broadleaf weed control can be used once weeds begin to grow. Annual weeds like crabgrass and spurge will die out on its own. Remember, most broadleaf weed control products will stress out turf- so only use this material as needed and at the right time. In addition, if you use broadleaf weed control- seeding and or overseeding can be delayed or postponed many weeks due to incompatibility issues. As a home owner, you must decide whether to aerate and overseed first and wait on weed control, or do you go after the weeds first and then aerate and overseed later in the fall. This is a fine dance and timing is important due to the onset of cooler weather and approaching frost/snow in November. If in doubt, ask someone in this kind of business first for advice. Once the material is down, you cannot take it back up and the delay may very well mean a missed opportunity.

A winterizer or a late season fertilizer treatment is a great application to help your grass store up energy for next spring. A late season potassium treatment is different from a winterizer being a balanced product. Potassium normally comes in a 0-0-62 blend, not a balanced product as compared to a winterizer that would be a 25-8-15 for example. The key to a late season application is so you don’t push a lot of new growth this year, but allow the lawn to store up the energy for next spring as a reserve. Potassium helps thicken cell walls and makes your lawn more resistant to drought, disease, and winter damage. Both applications are most useful when applied properly.

I hope this small post has inspired you to plan your attack this fall, after all, it is still early and lots can be done! Don’t let the fall slip away into winter, do some research- ask some questions, and get that grass looking better for 2011!

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The Official Chippers Turf Blog

Posts Tagged ‘damage’

What large piles of snow mean to your lawn this spring.

Ten Reasons to improve your lawn in NH or VT

A dirty lawn!

Review your lawn contract before renewing

Lawn Pesticides and the rainbow of emotions

October Lawn Care in NH & VT

Excessive grub activity is going undetected in NH lawns

Fall lawn treatments in NH & VT

Fall Seeding replaces crabgrass

Prepare for fall lawn projects

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